I have this (apparently common) #11 10 amp fuse blowing often(the fusebox under the hood). Mine did blow under heavy acceration only and now blows more often. I have disected CZ28's search for this issue and have been unable to find a good solution to the problem. However it does appear to be fairly common.

This is what I know:
This #11 10 amp fuse is for protecting the feed power for the ICM, ign coil, and the crank pos. sensor. Apparently there is some that find a solution with correcting the O2 sensor location on the passenger side near header. I Did not find an answer as to how this on a different circuit, could affect the other circuit. Some say to replace all 3 involved device(some did with no fix??),Some say to slice open your wire loom and trace the pink wire to the ICM-checking for cuts??. Others say to check for liquid drips on the crank pos. sensor, get the loom off of the radiator hose, don't drive in the rain, only use penzoil(ok, I made that one up, but the others are all written on this site).......The solution is like an old myth or legend!

Why is this happening to so many poeple, I found alot of threads on it. What is the cause and more importantly, what is the fix. I am thinking of replacing the coil(I currently have a unknown mileage MSD 8231), and replacing the ICM as well. My ICM has the following numbers/letters on it: 599 6D15--I can't find this number. Does anyone know the correct part number on a 96 TA ICM?? Also, what is the best coil for my vehice with a LE2 built LT1(stock bottom end)?? Stock? MSD?? Others??

So I am pleeding to the wealth of knowledge that surfs this site(ie, injuneer, shobox, speedy...), and many others that have helped me without knowing by there input and experience------What's the deal with 10A fuse #11?????

Thanks in advance!!

 

There is only one reason that any fuse blows. And that is because there is to much amperage being "pulled" thought it. i.e. if you have a 10A fuse and your system requires 10+ amps your going to blow the fuse.
The most common cause of high amperage flow are bad grounds. This can be caused by loose connections, corrorsion, broken wires, etc. These problems commonly occur at the end components, ICM, coil, crank pos. sensor, etc. For instance, the coil is made up of steel components with steel bolts, mounted to an aluminum head, which can cause dissimilar metal corrosion. GM componded this problem by using the smallest wire needed for any one system.
This can explane why people who have "messed" with the system may have inadvertently fix a bad ground by moving things around. Normally if an electronic component fails, the car stops running. It doesn't cause repeated fuse failures. With a multimeter you can check the resistance between each component and the engine/chassis. Obviously it shoud be nearly "0" ohms.
If you have the proper attachment you can check the amps of the wire at the fuse box. If it's not at one of the components your going to have to check the entire wire run for damage or bad connections.

 

I've never noticed it to be a "common" problem. In any case, randomly replacing parts is not the way to solve a problem. Testing the circuits and tracing down the source of the excessive current demand it the answer. Look at the IC Module or the coil, since the problem originated with heavy engine load, which is the point at which the coil is forced to produce more voltage. May be overheating, shorted, etc. Get the specs for the coil and verify the resistance, etc. Have your IC Module checked, both in a hot and a cold state. Scan the PCM for codes, to see if there is an inidcation of a short in the IC Module circuit. Try spacing the IC Module off the head to reduce heat soak.