agreed, Not flaming up this guys thread any more.

I think most of us would agree that a converter would be your next best mod.
If you can find some place to do a cheap true dual setup I would go for it. TD's and LT's sound great.

Good luck with whatever you do.

 

They sure do! But a converter would be more beneficial I think. Tough call.

As far as I know the car had always been an auto, and the previous owner did the 3.42s. I didn't even know until one day I suspected my RPM's seemed a bit higher then they should be, so I checked out my speed in 3rd gear and proved I had 3.42's.

They are a pretty decent ratio, sacrifices a bit off the line but doesn't kill highway mileage like higher gears would. I remember my brother's 3.73s were a bit much on the interstate.

I've also been afraid of DR's because of the 10 bolt. I hear auto's are easier on the rear then a manual, but still, the 10 bolt isn't the strongest link in system.

I moved to Florida two months ago. I'm here for at least another semester, after that I may go back to NJ or stay here, not sure yet. If I go back to NJ though I can forget about long tubes, at least legally, unless of course I keep my car registered down here

Oh and speaking of the previous owner, he also put on a flowmaster and from what I can tell gutted the cat. And speaking of gears I could use my brothers 3.73s as he doesn't have any use for them anymore. Or maybe they were 3.23's. I forget. But I think I'm going to stick with the 3.42's because when although not a DD the car does do some decent interstate miles. Just more info for you all.

Thanks for the help thus far!

 

in a chp mag they did dyno test of a crank puley it added 7hp and 17 ft lbs of torque i just installed one on my car and could feel a difference as for your grand you have to dump in your car i would get a set of gears 3:73 or 4:10 get some lts and weld you up some true duals you will see alot of power from them and have a better exhaust note than what you have now get a pulley there worth it to me....that with the instalation kit for your gears should be really close to 1k and you will have a good base for some n20 in the future

 

Comparably equipped, 9" costs more than Dana 60 and 12-bolt. Dana 60 is the cheapest of the three, and the strongest too.

You won't get out the door with a complete, new, ready-to-bolt-in 9" and a new driveshaft to go with it for less than $2000. You might get close if you're building a drag-only car with a spool. If you're willing to buy some junkyard parts and do some fabrication work, you can do it MUCH cheaper than that with any of the three. The price range I gave is for a brand-new bolt in unit with a posi and all of the right brackets already welded on.

I'm not adding significant power to or putting drag tires on my car until it has a stronger rear end in it. Breaking parts sucks. The drag strip I go to is more than an hour away, and I don't have easy access to a truck and trailer.

I guess if you live <5 miles from the strip or something, or if you have a truck and a trailer, you could justify building up the rest of the car and not replacing the rear until it's necessary, but in my world, you strengthen the drivetrain before you add power.

 

Why is everyone so worried about breaking parts? We spend thousand of dollars making these cars build more power than orginal designed to handle then people cry because they may break a rearend or crack a transmission case etc.etc. Or say to people don't use nitrous your trans wont hold it don't do this the rearend wont handle it go spend 3k on a 9'' to spray a 200 shot of nitrous.. Screw that guy's if you want to make horsepower you gonna break stuff it's the given law but dont let fear of breaking s*#t stop your build, Build what you want and how you want it and drop the hammer and replaced the crap that breaks it's called hot rodding..If your more worried about breaking parts than going fast you need to be over in the show and shine section... 2cents

 

I'm not worried about breaking parts. I'm worried about getting home from the track if I do. Since the rear is a known weak point, and since I enjoy the occasional trip to the drag strip, I'll be upgrading the rear before I add any significant amount of power.

 

I'd just wait till it busted if it ever does and if it did I'd just call a wrecker my first hot car I built was a 1968 camaro. I was 16 when I started building it the first good engine comb I had prodeuced 532hp at the fly and I put it through a 2spd glide in to the orginal 10bolt 8.2 rearend. And after another engine and trans combo and many pass down the track its still together and people told me it would never handle the Power I was putting to it running slicks but here we are 14years later and its still sitting in the shop waiting for someone to turn the key.. I guess basicly what I'm saying here is don't always belive everyone here on these forums there is a ton of good info here but alot of people are bleacher racers. I had a guy in another thread telling me how to build a 10second car when in his signature he listed he's fastest ET as 13.3 the factory 10bolt my be weak by some standards and applications but I think its become more of a hangup than a fact with that being said I'll probaly murder mine this weekend LOL

 

You got lucky. Most 10 bolts break with that much power.

Also, I have an M6, which puts the 10 bolt at even greater risk.

 

Why not do something like this...
Bullet Proof 10 Bolt
Write-Up
i'm looking to do this to mine... seems to hold up and i will probably never have more then 400 rwhp...
this guy is making a little under 500 rwhp... and he said it cost between 750-850...