LT's ~$300
TD's ~ $500
re-tune ~ $50
LCA relocation brackets ~ $100
Welding for brackets ~ $50


There's your $1K give or take a few dollars.

 

Alright I feel like a jerk, but people kill me with E Cutouts, pulleys, and other non yielding crap to waste money on. Why do poeple spend $150 on a cutout when you could have 3" duals for just as much?

-Dustin-

 

Well as much as i like you comment about women and modding them up i have to dis-agree. A crank pulley is worth 6-8rwhp and costs 100. Also the install isnt that bad, so for money is a worth while mod, well at least for me. A e cutout is plain fun. Opening it up in parking garages and when the police are around always puts a smile on my face, not to mention the 10-15rwhp it adds.

So i thought i would best for him to pick up a converter and a few extra horses. I think you would be hard pressed to find someone to do true duals for under 500. Unless your dumping them at the axle, than i would figure around 200 for labor and 200 for parts. So i dont know where your coming from with this $150 stuff? Even if you did everything yourself and just purchased parts i think a $150 budget would cut it close.

 

Save up a while longer, drop $2000-2500 on a nice strong rear end (12-bolt or Dana 60) with the gear ratio of your choice.

 

Where are you getting 6-8rwhp from a pulley?

 

Ive seen before and after dyno's. I'll dig one up.

 

www.ws6.com/mod-2.htm

The average gain was 4.4 hp and 5.8 tq. 23% ud pulley. Thats the BS, POS hypertech one. A ASP, or March performace one is a little better.

 

Wow, I'd like to know which dyno you're using which claims a 10-15rwhp from a cutout?

Do a search for my username and you'll see back to back dyno runs on a stock cat-back.

As for the $1k, A good stall and gears would be a good option (noticeable increase in performance & low risk in blowing something up). I'd stay away from the drag radials on a stock rear though.

Thomas.

 

Ummm, read it again ... the gain was 0.7rwhp on that graph with the underdrive pulley.

Thomas.

Edit: Oh, I see now, the average gain across the band was 4.4hp. Looks like the largest delta was somewhere around 4700rpm. Not sure that is reliable though, as you can run your car twice on the same dyno and get results which vary that much just based on the temp of motor, environmental differences, etc ...

 

Am I missing something? I did not see where you have your heads done, and yet everyone is suggesting that you spend money on everything but heads.
All of the things suggested should come after heads, not in lieu of heads.

Enlighten me please.

 

I know dyno pulls vary. But this test shows a gain. And to top it off its a hypertech pulley. We all know how well they do with tuning and their programmers....so i think if you found a before and after dyno of a ASP or March unit you would be in the 6-8rwhp gain area. For 100 bucks thats not bad.
Did you read the bottom of the page where they talked about both pulls were at 180 degree water temp. That they did everthing the same to prevent variables from messing up their test???
As for the cutout, Ive seen plenty of dyno's with 10-15rwhp gains. A lot of it depends on the application. The biggest part of the cutout is the torque gain tho.
If you guys dont want to believe me thats fine, share your opinion, just stop calling me out on this ****.

 

That's because they aren't ported. I didn't think it would be worthwhile with the cam I have. But this is why I am asking, to get some insight.

I do like the idea of a torque converter. I've heard it will lose some street-ability. This doesn't really concern me as it is no longer a daily driver, but I do want it to be streetable. I'm thinking something around 3200RPM stall would be a nice upgrade without going overboard.

If I can do true duals for $150, then I definitely am. I don't see it being that cheap, though.

I could do the converter and save whats left until I have some more money or a better idea of what to do. Or perhaps I should get the heads done first. I guess I need to think about it a little more.

 

 

get those heads ported, you can send them into lloyd and have them ported for a couple hundred more bucks and have a nice set of ported heads.

 

First let me say I'm not trying to call anyone out, I just hate when people dont get the best information on this stuff. I see it all the time with cars, trucks, tractors whatever.

Dont get me wrong, I have a ASP pulley and I'm sure it helps, but there are many other items on our cars that should be addressed before a pulley. E-cutout's I've never been a fan of. Anyone who would run true duals then puts E-cutouts in there should add flame kit while there at it. 3" duals can provide enough flow for up to 800hp, 2.5" is enough for 500hp. Why would you run a cutout in there? Why? I had an exhaust shop custom bend my 3" duals for close to $100. Then I spent $50 on bullets and I have enough flow for lots of mods, no to mention sound to back it up. You can buy a Summit X pipe kit for $90, comes with clamps. Spend $25 on each Summit bullet and now you've got your exhaust to support lots of power. All you need it headers to match. If you want tips out that back buy a good catback like a SLP LM or GMMG or something. I got a used Loudmouth for $90 shipped one time. Look around.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=371087 - Exhaust link. I dont think we are allowed to link Summit or else I would.

Next a torque converter is critical for any auto car or truck. Diesel guys all have to upgrade, so do we. This is an upgrade that should be on your list, even if you dont have a cam. Beware stock 4L60's are not that strong, hence why I wouldnt advise a nitrous kit for anyone with a stock internal 4L60e, aka original poster. Edge does decent, Vigilante and Yank are better, but even a crappy Midwest or something would do wonders over a stock one. Although sticky tires should be considered cause when the verter flashes most street tires just spin. Now that we are on that topic, Tires. Sticky tires are great, makes having TQ very pleasant. Problem, when you hook stress is put on something. This means rear ends or tranny or driveshafts. I have blown 10 bolts with street tires, I've also run them with slicks, it's a gamble you may take to be faster. Sooner or later something gives up.



I see no reason for this. Not that much power, street tires, rebuilding the stocker would be in my book until it saw drag time, sticky tires, and over 400 HP. Dont forget the 9" though...you can make one up for less than $2000.


Heads? I have to ask why? Mini baby cam, no stall, no gears, no longtubes, no full bolt on's, no tires...guys are running 11's with bolt ons without even having a cam...lot's can be had from these cars before heads. Just my opinion and I bet Lloyd's wouldnt be that far off.

Original Poster do you have a stock rear from a 6 speed car or are those aftermarket gears in a stock rebuild? 3.42's are a pretty good gear even for an auto, Darkhorse was cutting very good times with a stock 3.42 rear. Also what's your location?

-Dustin-