What would happen if I...
Re: What would happen if I...
Originally Posted by Fastbird93
As stated before, you don't want to do this. The IAT readings will go way up, causing you a loss in power overall.
What if you just add length to your IAT Sensor and put it somewhere else closer to ambient air?
Also on the Jegs magazine, it states that It WONT FIT LT1... Why do they say that.
Tim
Re: What would happen if I...
Originally Posted by 93redbird
What if you just add length to your IAT Sensor and put it somewhere else closer to ambient air?
Also on the Jegs magazine, it states that It WONT FIT LT1... Why do they say that.
Tim
Also on the Jegs magazine, it states that It WONT FIT LT1... Why do they say that.
Tim
Re: What would happen if I...
Well, Its either Do this after creating some duct work for basically 50 dollars and have hot air off the start which will not be that bad IF!!! the IAT sensor is relocated reading cool air, and then after I get going, it stays pretty cool with the air coming from the ducts and the Ramair effect. I just want to know if anyone has ever done this and see gains. I wish Everyone could check this. I would post on speeddensity.org but unfortunatley my username and PW goes in a constant loop when entering it in.
Tim
Tim
Re: What would happen if I...
Originally Posted by 93redbird
Well, Its either Do this after creating some duct work for basically 50 dollars and have hot air off the start which will not be that bad IF!!! the IAT sensor is relocated reading cool air, and then after I get going, it stays pretty cool with the air coming from the ducts and the Ramair effect. I just want to know if anyone has ever done this and see gains. I wish Everyone could check this. I would post on speeddensity.org but unfortunatley my username and PW goes in a constant loop when entering it in.
Tim
Tim
As for the filter thing, I'm going to do a bad thing here and reference a magazine. GM High Tech Performance to be exact, May 2003 issue.
"After trying unsuccessfully the first three runs to get into the 11's with the 4-inch inles "crack pipe," we opted to try the K&N RC-5000 throttle body fliter. We expected better performance from this because it allows air to move directly into the throttle body without bending and shearing around corners. In theory, this should've been the best set-up (it certainly was easy enough to install), but the elevation in air inlet temperature resulted in a drop in air density, thus negating any flow improvement."
They had shown about a 30 HP improvement on the dyno over the stock air intake and the throttle body filter, but that was with an open hood and a large fan blowing fresh air over the motor on the dyno. AT the track in real world conditions, they made two passes, hot lapping on the second one, and lost E.T and trap speed on both passes.
Would relocating the IAT help??? Maybe. Is it better than a CAI?? On a steaming hot day in the middle of the summer, NO.
Re: What would happen if I...
I probably am going to do this, just to do it... I really want to do this just cause its inexpensive and on a nice nights drive, I dont think it will hurt my performance, I think it will help it... so I am going to do it..
Last questions. I promise: The 5000 series is 600 CFM.. I am bone stock but plan to do some stuff someday.. nothing big though.. just headers, and pulley and stuff like that... Should I just get the 5050 series which flows 1000 cfm just to make sure... Just in case I spray someday.
and will they clear the thermostat housing without any modifications.... Because Jegs say it WONT FIT AN LT1. Is this a direct fit to the throttle body?
Tim
Last questions. I promise: The 5000 series is 600 CFM.. I am bone stock but plan to do some stuff someday.. nothing big though.. just headers, and pulley and stuff like that... Should I just get the 5050 series which flows 1000 cfm just to make sure... Just in case I spray someday.
and will they clear the thermostat housing without any modifications.... Because Jegs say it WONT FIT AN LT1. Is this a direct fit to the throttle body?
Tim
Re: What would happen if I...
Originally Posted by 93redbird
I probably am going to do this, just to do it... I really want to do this just cause its inexpensive and on a nice nights drive, I dont think it will hurt my performance, I think it will help it... so I am going to do it..
Last questions. I promise: The 5000 series is 600 CFM.. I am bone stock but plan to do some stuff someday.. nothing big though.. just headers, and pulley and stuff like that... Should I just get the 5050 series which flows 1000 cfm just to make sure... Just in case I spray someday.
and will they clear the thermostat housing without any modifications.... Because Jegs say it WONT FIT AN LT1. Is this a direct fit to the throttle body?
Tim
Last questions. I promise: The 5000 series is 600 CFM.. I am bone stock but plan to do some stuff someday.. nothing big though.. just headers, and pulley and stuff like that... Should I just get the 5050 series which flows 1000 cfm just to make sure... Just in case I spray someday.
and will they clear the thermostat housing without any modifications.... Because Jegs say it WONT FIT AN LT1. Is this a direct fit to the throttle body?
Tim
Re: What would happen if I...
Originally Posted by 93redbird
...Jegs say it WONT FIT AN LT1. Is this a direct fit to the throttle body?
Just taking a W.A.G. here, but I'd say they state that it isn't for an LT1 because installing one directly on the TB would bypass the MAF.
Re: What would happen if I...
Originally Posted by LameRandomName
Just taking a W.A.G. here, but I'd say they state that it isn't for an LT1 because installing one directly on the TB would bypass the MAF.
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