What Weight Oil For A Fresh Motor?
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 597
From: Wisconsin
I probably won't be able to stop smiling for a month
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,511
From: fort worth/burleson Tx
Hey no problem man, I just came across it looking through a jegs. I'm going to use your method of a quick break in and hope for the best. The guy that is doing my motor builds everything from a honda to top fuel motors so I have confidence in his work and all of the guys I know use him and have never had any problems. As long as the thing starts I should be good to go, I can't wait to hear that thing idle through an X-pipe and a set of Super 44 Flowmasters I probably won't be able to stop smiling for a month
I probably won't be able to stop smiling for a month
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,768
From: Friendswood, TX, USA
Thanks for clearing that up for me. I was confused there, I have never heard the term dino oil before, but I know synthetic and synthetic blend, or regular oil.
So the plan is Castrol 10-30 on startup and for the first 100 miles, but I think I might stick with regular "dino" oil since even if I would run synthetic I would still change it at 2000-2500 miles since no matter how many tests I see I just don't trust an oil to last 15000 miles. I have no problem paying for better oil, but I just don't like to see some of these people running the same oil for that many miles
Are there any advantages to using 20-50 compared to 10-30?
So the plan is Castrol 10-30 on startup and for the first 100 miles, but I think I might stick with regular "dino" oil since even if I would run synthetic I would still change it at 2000-2500 miles since no matter how many tests I see I just don't trust an oil to last 15000 miles. I have no problem paying for better oil, but I just don't like to see some of these people running the same oil for that many miles
Are there any advantages to using 20-50 compared to 10-30?
I quess I'll never understand why people have so much trouble with this. I know guys that have never seen their wheel bearings, much less repacked them, wont change their trans. or differential oil for 100,000m., or ever look at their brake fluid, but they're out there two three times a year changing perfectly good synthetic motor oil.
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Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 597
From: Wisconsin
Please do not do this. If your going to change oil every 3,000m., just stay with reg. oil. Your just wasting your money and our precious natural resorces, by dumping perfectly good oil down the drain.
I quess I'll never understand why people have so much trouble with this. I know guys that have never seen their wheel bearings, much less repacked them, wont change their trans. or differential oil for 100,000m., or ever look at their brake fluid, but they're out there two three times a year changing perfectly good synthetic motor oil.
I quess I'll never understand why people have so much trouble with this. I know guys that have never seen their wheel bearings, much less repacked them, wont change their trans. or differential oil for 100,000m., or ever look at their brake fluid, but they're out there two three times a year changing perfectly good synthetic motor oil.
I'll stick with regular oil unless someone comes up with something that will change my mind, but so far I still don't think I'll use it.
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