What Weight Oil For A Fresh Motor?
What Weight Oil For A Fresh Motor?
What weight oil are you guys putting ion your fresh motors and what intervals are you changing it at?
I was going to check the clearences on my bearings, but was planning on either 20-50 or 10-30 but let me know what you think.
Also I was going to start the motor and let it run and get warmed up then change the oil and filter. Then I was going to drive it roughly 50-100 miles and change the oil again or do you think thats too much? I was going to change it right after the engine gets warm to get all of the moly lube out and fresh oil in, but when should I do the second and third oil change?
Thanks in advance
I was going to check the clearences on my bearings, but was planning on either 20-50 or 10-30 but let me know what you think.
Also I was going to start the motor and let it run and get warmed up then change the oil and filter. Then I was going to drive it roughly 50-100 miles and change the oil again or do you think thats too much? I was going to change it right after the engine gets warm to get all of the moly lube out and fresh oil in, but when should I do the second and third oil change?
Thanks in advance
I guess it really dpeends on your clearences. The engine shop that built my motor is real old school, they hate synthetic oils also. They recomend I use, and ONLY use Penzoil 20w-50, the fact that I have a .0065" ish piston to wall clearence mite also have something to do with it
10w-30 sounds good though if you have close to stockish clearences, yea dont use synthetic either.
10w-30 sounds good though if you have close to stockish clearences, yea dont use synthetic either.
There is a school of thought that to seat the rings you should drive the car relatively hard shortly after startup. I plan to run mine just enough to make sure it is ok and warm it up, then go for a ride without babying it or using full power. There's a thread about it someplace here.
Of course, flat tappet cams have special startup requirements.
Of course, flat tappet cams have special startup requirements.
Last edited by JP95ZM6; Apr 26, 2007 at 09:00 PM. Reason: added flat tappet note
no synthetic, 10-40 start it up run it for 10 min while checking for leaks. turn off the car change the oil and cut the oil filter to make sure there are no big peices of metal... you will see a little this is normal.
go drive it, VARY THE RPMS 1/4 throttle to 3000 x2 1/2 throttle to 4000 x2 3/4 throttle to 5000 x2 and full on to what ever your gonna shift at. Quick seat the rings.
drive it for 100 miles and keep varying the rpm in daily driving. change the oil. cut open the filter and inspect.
after this you can use synthetic and drive it how you want it.
go drive it, VARY THE RPMS 1/4 throttle to 3000 x2 1/2 throttle to 4000 x2 3/4 throttle to 5000 x2 and full on to what ever your gonna shift at. Quick seat the rings.
drive it for 100 miles and keep varying the rpm in daily driving. change the oil. cut open the filter and inspect.
after this you can use synthetic and drive it how you want it.
i found the link to the thread i got my information from when i did my engine. pay particular attention to what sstrokerace says! it also talks about oil!
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ght=quick+seat
[/QUOTE]Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
I do a warm up, check to make sure it's running well, good pressure no leaks etc... change the oil and filter. Then start it up the second time and take it for a drive and progressively get on it harder and harder till you are doing WOT pulls. That will seat the rings in the best. I don't ***** foot around in the thing for very long, if you baby it too much the rings will not seal and then it's a freaking pile.
You have a roller cam so there is no need to be easy on it once everything checks out ok.
Bret[/QUOTE]
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ght=quick+seat
[/QUOTE]Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
I do a warm up, check to make sure it's running well, good pressure no leaks etc... change the oil and filter. Then start it up the second time and take it for a drive and progressively get on it harder and harder till you are doing WOT pulls. That will seat the rings in the best. I don't ***** foot around in the thing for very long, if you baby it too much the rings will not seal and then it's a freaking pile.
You have a roller cam so there is no need to be easy on it once everything checks out ok.
Bret[/QUOTE]
Couple questions
1. WTF is dino oil? Is it just regular off the shelf oil? Like regular mobil oil, or any nonsynthetic?
2. Quick Seat?? Should I get that or will I be ok to vary the RPMs and do a few quick jumps to 60 mph?
My plan of attack right now is.....run the motor and check idle, temp, oil pressure, and leaks. Change the oil and cut open the filter make sure everything is normal. Then take the car for a quick drive varying the RPMs alot, do a 1/3 throttle run to 60 2 times staying under 3000 RPMs, then 1/2 throttle run to 60 2 times staying under 4000 RPMs, then 3/4 throttle run to 60 2 times staying under 5000 RPMs, then 2 WOT on runs to 60 and then bring it back, change the oil and cut the filter open and let it cool off. Then drive the car for about 150-200 miles varying the RPMs and how hard I get on it, but still take it fairly easy not beating it.
Sound good? Hopefully I will have some sort of video up next saturday night after everything checks out.
Thanks for the input guys and let me know if the "quick seat" is really needed of if I will be ok with what I said above.
1. WTF is dino oil? Is it just regular off the shelf oil? Like regular mobil oil, or any nonsynthetic?
2. Quick Seat?? Should I get that or will I be ok to vary the RPMs and do a few quick jumps to 60 mph?
My plan of attack right now is.....run the motor and check idle, temp, oil pressure, and leaks. Change the oil and cut open the filter make sure everything is normal. Then take the car for a quick drive varying the RPMs alot, do a 1/3 throttle run to 60 2 times staying under 3000 RPMs, then 1/2 throttle run to 60 2 times staying under 4000 RPMs, then 3/4 throttle run to 60 2 times staying under 5000 RPMs, then 2 WOT on runs to 60 and then bring it back, change the oil and cut the filter open and let it cool off. Then drive the car for about 150-200 miles varying the RPMs and how hard I get on it, but still take it fairly easy not beating it.
Sound good? Hopefully I will have some sort of video up next saturday night after everything checks out.
Thanks for the input guys and let me know if the "quick seat" is really needed of if I will be ok with what I said above.
1. dino oil is unrefined pure out of the ground oil...i would just 10-40 castrol it for the first and 2nd oil change. then move to synthetic blend castrol. 5-20
2. quick seat is not something you buy. its just the term for the method of breaking in i stated in my 1st post. seating the rings "quick" as opposed to taking hundreds of miles
what you have sounds good in term of breaking it in. HOWEVER i would change the oil the 2nd time at 100 miles just to be safe.
2. quick seat is not something you buy. its just the term for the method of breaking in i stated in my 1st post. seating the rings "quick" as opposed to taking hundreds of miles
what you have sounds good in term of breaking it in. HOWEVER i would change the oil the 2nd time at 100 miles just to be safe.
1. dino oil is unrefined pure out of the ground oil...i would just 10-40 castrol it for the first and 2nd oil change. then move to synthetic blend castrol. 5-20
2. quick seat is not something you buy. its just the term for the method of breaking in i stated in my 1st post. seating the rings "quick" as opposed to taking hundreds of miles
what you have sounds good in term of breaking it in. HOWEVER i would change the oil the 2nd time at 100 miles just to be safe.
2. quick seat is not something you buy. its just the term for the method of breaking in i stated in my 1st post. seating the rings "quick" as opposed to taking hundreds of miles
what you have sounds good in term of breaking it in. HOWEVER i would change the oil the 2nd time at 100 miles just to be safe.
You would just use regular castrol 10-40? Where can you get unrefined oil? Also there is stuff called quickseat, but if it isn't needed if I break the motor in correctly I won't waste money on it. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_65164_-1
Also I was going to do the 2nd oil change at 15 or 20 miles and the 3rd at 200-300 miles and then every 2000-2500 miles. But you think I should wait to do the second change at 100?
Thanks again
Don't worry about and special oil to break your engine in, just use a regular 10w40 and seat the rings, mineral oils are so bad nowadays it won't take long, then change to a high quality synthetic like Amsoil series 3000 0w30 and you'll be good.
Randy
Randy
You would just use regular castrol 10-40? Where can you get unrefined oil? Also there is stuff called quickseat, but if it isn't needed if I break the motor in correctly I won't waste money on it. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_65164_-1
Also I was going to do the 2nd oil change at 15 or 20 miles and the 3rd at 200-300 miles and then every 2000-2500 miles. But you think I should wait to do the second change at 100?
Thanks again
Also I was going to do the 2nd oil change at 15 or 20 miles and the 3rd at 200-300 miles and then every 2000-2500 miles. But you think I should wait to do the second change at 100?
Thanks again
So here is a short explanation.
There are currently three types of motor oil commonly found at your local auto part stores.
Refined oil, Synthetic oil, and Blended oil.
Refined oil, is the stuff thats been around since internal combustion engines were invented. It comes from CRUDE which is normally pumped out of the ground shipped to a refineries, where all the different lubricants are seperated and modified. This is what "we" refer to as Dino, Standard, Old School, Regular oil, and probably several other names I can't think of right now.
Synthetic oil, is commonly refered to as manufactured oil because of the control that the company has with this type of production.
I wouldn't go into all the benefits of synthetic, we'll just say it's the best.
Blended oil, is a combination of refined(dino) oil and synthetic. This oil is a compromise and may be better than dino and it's cheaper than synthetic.
Critter, has caused you some confusion by incorrectly defining "Dino Oil"
So here is a short explanation.
There are currently three types of motor oil commonly found at your local auto part stores.
Refined oil, Synthetic oil, and Blended oil.
Refined oil, is the stuff thats been around since internal combustion engines were invented. It comes from CRUDE which is normally pumped out of the ground shipped to a refineries, where all the different lubricants are seperated and modified. This is what "we" refer to as Dino, Standard, Old School, Regular oil, and probably several other names I can't think of right now.
Synthetic oil, is commonly refered to as manufactured oil because of the control that the company has with this type of production.
I wouldn't go into all the benefits of synthetic, we'll just say it's the best.
Blended oil, is a combination of refined(dino) oil and synthetic. This oil is a compromise and may be better than dino and it's cheaper than synthetic.
So here is a short explanation.
There are currently three types of motor oil commonly found at your local auto part stores.
Refined oil, Synthetic oil, and Blended oil.
Refined oil, is the stuff thats been around since internal combustion engines were invented. It comes from CRUDE which is normally pumped out of the ground shipped to a refineries, where all the different lubricants are seperated and modified. This is what "we" refer to as Dino, Standard, Old School, Regular oil, and probably several other names I can't think of right now.
Synthetic oil, is commonly refered to as manufactured oil because of the control that the company has with this type of production.
I wouldn't go into all the benefits of synthetic, we'll just say it's the best.
Blended oil, is a combination of refined(dino) oil and synthetic. This oil is a compromise and may be better than dino and it's cheaper than synthetic.
So the plan is Castrol 10-30 on startup and for the first 100 miles, but I think I might stick with regular "dino" oil since even if I would run synthetic I would still change it at 2000-2500 miles since no matter how many tests I see I just don't trust an oil to last 15000 miles. I have no problem paying for better oil, but I just don't like to see some of these people running the same oil for that many miles
Are there any advantages to using 20-50 compared to 10-30?
oops! sorry!
when i was saying quick seat i didn't realize there was an actual product called quick seat. its just the term that i've always heard for the method i described above.
sorry bout that!
when i was saying quick seat i didn't realize there was an actual product called quick seat. its just the term that i've always heard for the method i described above.
sorry bout that!


