I have or will have the following:

fan switch ---- on - off - on

N2O arming ---- on - off should have something to protect from accedental arming too shouldnt it?

N20 purge ---- momentary on??? so I have to hold it in the on??

N2O remote opener ---- on - off ....... as in open and closed???



and for the fan switch i want one with the 6 prongs on the bottom for LEDs right? on high on low... no LED for off.

and for the N20 arming, i need one with 4... so I can have an on LED?

and a 4 prong for the opener aswell so I can have an open LED?




I think this is right, but cant remember where I know that from, therefor am having a hard time searching for what I need.
Just want to confirm this information so I can buy the right stuff.

Thanks for any help, and I hope this is the right forum, didnt really know where else to put it.

 

I'm new to electrical, and have been confusing the hell out of myself with some of this stuff, so I want to make sure I buy it right the first time, so I can save myself time and a few bucks.

 

I am no nitrous master, but I think you've got a good start...

A three position for your fans, you should be able to find one that is dual illuminated so you get one color for low speed and a different color for high speed.

For the Nitrous arming, you can get those protected toggle switches, BUT those things are kida tall. Plus most people install nitrous so it has to be armed and the car must be at WOT in order for the system to run, so there's some protection from accidental arming.

You could also set it up so that the arming switch doesn't get power until the bottle is opened, or vice versa so add some protection as well.

Don't most well planned nitrous setups have sensors to detect low nitrous pressure and shut down the fuel solenoid to keep from flooding the engine if there's no nitrous? If so, then set it up so that the bottle switch gets power when the system is armed, that way if you accidentally arm it, but forget to open the bottle, the system won't run. Also doing it the other way, wiring the bottle opener switch to feed power to the arming switch ensures that you can't arm the system without the bottle open.

For the purging, a momentary switch certainly seems to be the best idea here.

I would also recommend you use a different color switch for each one so you can't confuse them. Also you can get lighted rocker switches which will eliminate the need for extra LEDs, unless you want the extra indicators (for example a lighted rocker with an LED in the instrument cluster to indicate an armed system)... You can easily wire the LEDs to the relays so they come on when the relay is powered up. You don't need special switches to wire up LEDs.

Good luck... You might want to get this moved over to the N20 discussion because people there MIGHT be better suited to help with these questions.

 

Thanks for hte help, and that seems like a good idea, didnt think of that.
So can a mod please move this for me? thanks.

 

other way around, if FP goes low the nitrous is cut. more fuel wont hurt anything, nitrous without fuel will.

I believe you are looking for a DPDT switch for the fan switch depending on what directions you are following. so you have

low- off- high