Thanks, SStrokerAce.

ONE final question i promise, before i finally go out and buy the rockers. Should i get bigger injectors going to a .506 lift?

And just for kicks here's my list of stuff i am going to buy.

1. 987 valve springs
2. 1320 Comp Cam Pro Magnum 1.7 roller rockers made for a big block, 7/16"
3. 7608 chromemoly pushrods
4. 134 ARP 7/16" rocker stud
5. 4808 pushrod guide plate
6. 141 black crinkle tall valve covers

Total: More money then i wanted to spend. around $570 or something.

 

MAke sure you get valve covers for a LT1 that have the alternator clearance.... the LT4 covers are a good bet.

The right guideplate is the GM 14011051 not the Comp one.

You also need some retainers and locks to go with those springs.

Bret

 

Not trying to hi jack but earlier this year I talked with Lloyd and we originally set up my ported heads using comp 987 springs with titanium retainers. Bret did my 383 cam and I had to switch to 918 springs along with comp hi tech pushrods, etc. I still got the springs, retainers, locks, locators and hardened pushrods. The springs were only installed, but never run. Pushrods are still in the original packaging thru Combination Motorsports were I purchased a cam kit thru a group purchase. I'd let it all go for $160 shipped to your door. Just a thought. Does me no good having it sit around here.....

 

If i got self-aligning rocker arms would i need guide plates? also don't they fit better under stock hoods? I'm thinking about just getting 1.6's because trying to get the BB 1.7's to work are spendy.

ShibbyZ

 

No, you wouldn't need the guide plates .If you want to spin some rpms the use of guide plates and Non self aligning rockers would be ideal.It would be a good choice to upgrade stud size and get some comp pro mag's. They are nice! Besides if you are looking to save some cash the cost is approx. the same. Generally self aligning rockers tend to cost a few more dollars were as the NSA type are a few bucks cheaper so the purchase of the guide plates isn't really much more. GM guide plates from the dealer is about $30 so it isn't so bad and THEY ARE the CORRECT plates to use.

 

Bret, you may want to reconsider your answer, as you gave incorrect info. The BBC rocker arm is NOT a direct replacement for the SBC RA. This was a popular swap (use of the OEM RA) for those looking for more lift for more serious applications, back when your dad was your age. It DOES require relocation of the rocker stud.

 

That good to know. But now i plan on going with 1.6 self-aligning. The only problem i have is, 94z said if you want to push high RPMs you'll want NSA with guide plates. What is high RPM? 6,000...6,500....7,000 ??? If they work with stock cams and can handle a few floorings here and there and a few times at the track a year that's good enough for me. So are they fine with the rest being stock and hardly pushing 6k RPM?

 

Only going to 6k? They should be just fine. I turn mine to 6800rpm. I use to burn my stock motor to 6k all the time. In fact it would bounce of the rev limiter often.
By spinning higher you'd want the guideplates and NSA rockers but also bigger stud (7/16) and some good springs with Titanium retainers to reduce the weight and avoid valve float and stiffen the valvetrain best you can.

 

Ok thanks. Yeah i'm only going to be revving to 6k, my rev limiter is at 6200 (stock) and it shifts at 5800. So i'm just going to get the self-aligning 1.6's.

 

With your intended RPM usage, I wouldn't change RA for the sake of RPM. HOWEVER, if changing the RA anyway, in this case for more lift, I would without hesitation, go with the non SA rockers. More effort and skill involved in the swap and adjustment, however.

 

Exactly, I just want something that i can take the cover off, unscrew a few things, put the new stuff on, and be done. I was also looking at the nitro-carb SA, non-roller rocker arms. They look like the stamped steel stock ones, but are 1.6's. For my intended use, i think they are good. I'm not going to be drag racing this hardcore, maybe a few times a year, if that.

 

flatlanderracing.com

Search for scorpion rockers there. Small block, 3/8 or 7/16 stud, 1.7 ratio, all aluminum, $220.

 

Any idea as to why GM put aluminum rockers on the LT4? Was it because they were good, or because they were cheap/inexpensive? I'll give you a hint. GM decided they were good enuf to get by.

 

So you're saying alluminum rockers are bad? Aren't they suppose to lighten the load making it easier for the car to rev higher and have less friction?

 

You can attain that with the better designed steel rockers as well. Not all aluminum rockers are of equal quality, but the general use of forged aluminum anything, in an engine that requires durability and high mileage, is questionable. That is my policy anyway. Many 'cycles' of use, raises fatigue issues with aluminum. Ironically, GM put them in production engines. They must have gotten one hell of a deal on them.