Well, that coolant line that goes to the top of the water pump which has ruptured and it seems that it is a discontinued part and no one makes a generic. So, how are you guys repairing these lines when they fail? Photos would really help.

 

After some searching it seems that they are for the heater core, which mine is presently not working, instead it leaks in my floor whenever it is in use, so can I bypass it for now without that bleeder section or will have inevitably have some air in the section that will effect my cooling?

 

Try bypassing it and bleeding it from the top of the thermostat housing. Couldnt hurt to try.

 

Yes, you can bypass it with no problems. I don't even use the bleeder screws when I fill the cooling system.

 

Are you talking about the 90* hose at the top from the heater core that goes into the water pump?

Which side of the air bleeder fitting did it rupture on.. the water pump side? If so just cut the GM factory clamp off with an air cutter or dremel, and replace with a generic 5/8" 90* bend hose from napa or w/e.

 

Using the air bleed screws is always recommended on the LT1 used in the F-bodys. The Corvette's actually have a significantly different external cooling system to eliminate air without the need for the bleeders. But not bleeding the air on an F-Body LT1 is an invitation to overheating.

 

I always bleed the system, I just do it different. I've never used the bleed screws though. Since PCMForLess did my first tune, I've never gotten above 170 degrees.