LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related
View Poll Results: what normally fails/failed on you
opti eye/electronic
10
38.46%
cap/rotor
16
61.54%
Voters: 26. You may not vote on this poll

What normally goes wrong with optis?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 4, 2007 | 04:12 PM
  #1  
reamo04's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,705
From: Kansas
What normally goes wrong with optis?

just wondering which normally goes out, the eye, or cap/rotor. Im talking STOCK applications, not a high-rev situation where the rotor flies apart.
Old Jul 4, 2007 | 04:18 PM
  #2  
Dave89IROC's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,676
From: Melvindale, MI, US
generally, the cap/rotor fails
however, coolant/oil/rust(from the bearing or plate) can blind/damage the sensor

plus, the connector and the harness terminals can corrode
Old Jul 4, 2007 | 07:18 PM
  #3  
SS RRR's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 1998
Posts: 3,144
From: Jackstandican
I'd say the largest problem over the years was the opti screws working themselves loose. I cringe to think of how many optis were thrown away that only needed some loc-tite to restore to operating order again...
Old Jul 4, 2007 | 08:07 PM
  #4  
ricehammer's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 334
From: Roanoke VA
The bearing are shot in mine. Starting to miss a little here and there. Gotta get a new one soon I guess.
Old Jul 4, 2007 | 08:12 PM
  #5  
mrseven's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 109
From: Los Angeles, CA
My water pump ended up leaking on mine, destroyed the cap and rotor.
Old Jul 4, 2007 | 09:32 PM
  #6  
SS RRR's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 1998
Posts: 3,144
From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by mrseven
My water pump ended up leaking on mine, destroyed the cap and rotor.

How can coolant "destroy" a cap and rotor? They are nothing but plastic and metal.
Old Jul 5, 2007 | 11:03 AM
  #7  
user 647483's Avatar
Banned
 
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,444
Originally Posted by SS RRR

How can coolant "destroy" a cap and rotor? They are nothing but plastic and metal.
Got water in mine a while back. Car would not start, just massive backfires.
(Read: orange flames out TB)

Replaced cap and rotor and it runs fine now.
Old Jul 5, 2007 | 11:08 AM
  #8  
96LT1TX's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,035
From: Houston, TX
cap and rotor = 2x, sensor = 1x

gotta love the noise of turning the opti and hearing clunks and feeling it stick to the destruction inside.
Old Jul 5, 2007 | 12:23 PM
  #9  
Z28LT1_Just_Nasty's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 501
From: Monmouth County, NJ
Mine have always had good cap and rotors but the optical sensor went. So the optical sensor on mine.
Old Jul 5, 2007 | 02:08 PM
  #10  
30696bird's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,013
From: dalton Ga.
Originally Posted by Z28LT1_Just_Nasty
Mine have always had good cap and rotors but the optical sensor went. So the optical sensor on mine.

Same here.
Old Jul 5, 2007 | 07:18 PM
  #11  
SS RRR's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 1998
Posts: 3,144
From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by James Montigny
Got water in mine a while back. Car would not start, just massive backfires.
(Read: orange flames out TB)

Replaced cap and rotor and it runs fine now.
Was it still wet when you pulled it out? Never heard of a car backfiring just because the cap/rotor was wet or even corroded. I'm wondering if it was wet if you would've been able to simply dry it off, clean any corrosion off and see if it would've worked. I understand that would've been a PITA to do by taking the risk of re-installing bad parts, but it's still a possibility...

I dunno... in the 10+ years I've owned this car I've only had two optis on it and they still both work. The first one had the rotor screw problem and was drenched in coolant for over a week and all it needed was to dry out. I reckon I've had great luck.

Last edited by SS RRR; Jul 5, 2007 at 07:20 PM.
Old Jul 5, 2007 | 07:32 PM
  #12  
user 647483's Avatar
Banned
 
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,444
Originally Posted by SS RRR
Was it still wet when you pulled it out? Never heard of a car backfiring just because the cap/rotor was wet or even corroded. I'm wondering if it was wet if you would've been able to simply dry it off, clean any corrosion off and see if it would've worked. I understand that would've been a PITA to do by taking the risk of re-installing bad parts, but it's still a possibility...

I dunno... in the 10+ years I've owned this car I've only had two optis on it and they still both work. The first one had the rotor screw problem and was drenched in coolant for over a week and all it needed was to dry out. I reckon I've had great luck.
It was dry by then.
I got it Wet on a rainy Sunday morning (6" of standing water ) but it drove home just fine.
I washed and waxed it and left it in the garage.

When I tried to turn it over that night, it shook violently and would not start.
I drained the oil (it was fine), poped the spark plugs (seemed dry) and let it
sit overnight. The next day I could get it to backfire, but would not start.

That Wednesday, I finally got around to working on it. (it was still backfiring)
I pulled the cap and rotor off, replaced them and it started right up.
I returned the opti base I had purchased to the autoparts store.

Last edited by user 647483; Jul 5, 2007 at 07:36 PM.
Old Jul 8, 2007 | 12:35 PM
  #13  
marshall93z's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,639
From: Mooresville, NC
270,000 on the original. We'll see how it like rpms when I get the motor back together!
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Xiantyl
LT1 Based Engine Tech
18
Jul 21, 2015 05:42 AM
Dark Zeiro
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
4
Jul 19, 2015 08:25 AM
RUNMYTA
Fuel and Ignition
3
Jul 15, 2015 07:50 PM
asilomar244
LT1 Based Engine Tech
17
Jul 12, 2015 05:53 AM
jwade88
LT1 Based Engine Tech
16
Jun 14, 2015 09:38 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:12 PM.