Engine is going to be torn down within a few months, and im trying to get a general idea of what to start looking for.

Will be 383, splayed 4 bolt, somewhere between 8:1 and 9:1 static, and turboed with t76q trim more than likely.

Obviously i will need a forged bottom end, but i never see a hp or strength rating on any parts. As i said in topic, im shooting for 1000 flywheel hp once the engine is all done.

Oliver and callies are companies i see a lot around here as making some good stuff, but can they hold that kind of power and 7000max rpms?

Try to keep as light a possible, but not #1 priority. Figured on ARP fasteners, and FM or clevite 77H bearings.

Also, totally unrelated, but maybe i can get an answer. Currently running a 234/242 112 595/575 cam. Ideally i would want more exhaust with a big turbo, but will this cam suffice at first?

 

I had most of a 383 built with some badass parts.
I had eagle 3430 crank, eagle h-beam 6" rods, and then Je pistons. I dont know how much it could of held but i know that all those parts are the best that company makes. My motor was going to put out about 700hp and my engine builder said that my bottom end would of held it, but dont know how easily.

 

Normally with 1000 hp your talkin some serious bottom end parts, but because of the "softer hit" of a turbo motor as opposed to a nitrous motor, i think you could get away with a eagle set up. But im overly careful and would use a lunati pro series crank, oliver rods, and je pistons. Custom pistons, not off the shelfs, cause they are made differantly. Just my .02, hope this helps, prorac1

 

A hp rating for parts makes no sense as an isolated statement. Read here to find out why: http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=150191

If you are really tryng for 1,000hp, the obvious answer is the best of everything. Good brands are Callies, Lunati, or the high-end Scat 4340 cranks. Carillo or Oliver "billet" rods. JE or Ross pistons, etc. Besides the obvious, you'd be best off going with a stock bore or an 0.010" over block to keep as much cylinder block thickness as possible. A partial block fill may also be something to consider.

Good luck, hang on to your wallet. The supporting comonents are gonna kill you. They did for my piddling 800hp.

Rich Krause

 

I'll vote for the Callies Stealth crank and the Oliver billet rods. Top them with a set of custom pistons from BME and you'll be good for 1,000+HP. I have seen more than one LT1 application make that kind of HP with exactly those parts.

Like Rich said, don't go nuts on the overbore, and don't go for extreme rod length at the expense of weak pistons and exposing the rings to excessive temps. Consider 5.85" rods as a good compromise.

 

Hey man...maybe I can add something to this. First off the block is going to be the weakest link since you are going with good parts in the bottom end. You don't need the best from callies, oliver, or billet parts. Just a good 4130 or 4340 crank from scat or eagle will work fine. Also the eagle H-beam rods will work and I went a head and got the L-19 bolts in mine. I went with Ross 2618 pistons as well and used ferria tappered wrist pins. Any of these parts can out last the stock block. If a 2100HP turbo ford motor doesn't have to run billet cranks or rods, or even the best forged components then a 1000HP SBC doesn't need the best money can buy.

Now why are you reving a 383 1000HP turbo motor to 7000RPM. Thats not necessary. With about 23PSI you should make 1000HP around 6000-6200RPM with good heads and cam, and that will be alot easier on the bottom end parts.

Also the comment you made on the cam about more exh duration. I would use a cam like 230-236 intake/224-228 exhaust on a 114-115. Keep the overlap to a minimum, either negative overlap or not more than 2 degrees. Give Cam Motion Cams a call and the will put together something for you, those guys have lots of experience with turbo cams and know what really works great.

 

One more thing, is this just a normal T-76 or is it a 76MM wheel in something like a thumper housing. If not you are gonna be hard pressed to make a true 1000HP out of this LT1.

 

im forgetting a few things, also you will want to atleast the block o-ringed and possibly receiver grooves in the heads and run a copper head gasket. Make sure you get great machine work.

 

I would go with callies for the crank callies or oliver for the rods JE pistons. You will need a custom cam to get anywhere near 1000 HP. Turbo cams are very specialized.

 

thats some serious power!

 

You guys have been more than helpful with this so far. 1000hp is the number i somewhat threw out there, if i only make 800 or 900, im not going to cry Also this wont be something that happens next week or anything, i would guess 3 years or so befrore completion

The turbo kit hasnt been thought out by me at all yet, so the t76q trim was just my first instinct. If i have to go bigger i will. For the time i am just going to get the motor takin care of, then start saving some more for the boost part.

I know a custom, high LSA, low overlap cam is what is wanted for max hp, turbo application. I was more curious on how the cam i already have would drive under boost. I think it has 16º of overlap A new cam is the least of my wallets worries right now.

The 7k limit i said b/c thats what i was thinking the cam i currently have would spin to in an application like this. With a new cam, the powerband can be put almost wherever i want, but more RPMs almost always will mean more HP IMO.

Rich:
Can you fill me in a little on your supporting components? Fuel system and what else other than forged bottom end. I have the best valvetrain that i could afford, and already running an OK suspension. The heads are my worst enemy right now. I can see that easily costing 2000.

5.85 rod instead of 5.7? Always heard with boost you want as much piston as possible, even though you side load the walls more. Will a 5.85 be safe still?

My block right now is still good, so i can hone and still use the 4.000 bore. Would i be better off sticking with the 3.48 stroke rather than the 3.75, even though i will be increasing spool time and knocking a little low end off the motor with less cubes?

 

If your going to have everything apart (obviously) i wouldnt halfass the cam If your going to spend $1200 to $1700 for billet rods whats $250 for a custom cam?

 

Also, ive got ken/rich/fred telling me to get $1000+ rods, and the rest of you saying i will be ok with a nice set of forged h beams.

Are they being overly cautious with the billet stuff, or is it needed?

 

Hey atljar - I have friends that work at one of the best turbo shops in the country. They use alot of Manley foged rods in 2000+ HP turbo SBF's. If these forged rods (not billet) will hold up in a 2000+HP 7500+ RPM motor then that tells me you don't even need that good of a rod in a 1000HP 6000RPM motor. Turbo's are just not that tough on parts because of the way it makes power. When getting into this power level, 1000HP and up, Nitrous burns extremly fast because you are introducing a chemical into the combustion process, so you get really high peak cylinder pressure for a short period of time, but this short period is tough on parts. A blower making 1000HP would really be making 1150+ and then spinning the blower would bring the HP seen at the flywheel down to 1000. And also it will be side loading the crank (pulling the crank into the block) which takes a really good crank and a really good block. A turbo/NA/or blower motor doesn't have the high peak cylinder pressures seen with large amounts of nitrous. And the turbo doesn't side load the crank like a blower or "waste" near as much power spinning the compressor wheel.

This all makes sense in my head, I just don't know if I did a good job of getting it typed

 

I will post more later, but just a quick comment for now. A street motor needs better parts than a race motor in some respects. My recommendation for high end stuff is in reference to that and the initial post that stated a goal of 1,000hp. There aren't many (are there any?) 1,000hp street stock block small block motors out there. That's is a motor set on "kill". If it's a street car, it will go through many, many more stress cycles than a race motor. I assume atljar doesn't plan to take it out and freshen it up every few weeks?

A good set of forged rods with good rod bolts, for example, won't immediately self destruct. Read the thread I referred to for a bit of perspective on this. But at this hp level, the extra $400 is not much money. I have ~200hp less and am using a set of Lunati "Pro Mod" rods with ARP bolts. They are on borrowed time, as far as I am concerned but I had them and wanted to re-use them. I know the consequences and am prepared for them. If I were buying a whole new rotating assy for even my power level, I'd get better rods. Everyone at least seems to agree on the drank? You don't need "billet" here, but you do need a stout 4340 forging.

I will opine on the fuel system later.

Rich Krause