If you read that thread I posted you will see that Mobil1 is a bit thinner than other oils and thier 30 weight is closer to a 20 which is why I am using the 40. Patman goes into great detail about this, makes for a great read.

 

True.

I may step up to a 40W. Thanks for the link. I was comparing to the the 5w30 Mobil 1 in my post, but you make a very good point.

Dan

 

my car LOVES mobil 1 10-30

 

Yeah, to bad mobil 1 doesnt have a 10-40w. So,im just stickin with the 10-30

 

Yeah, I would probably step up to the 10w40 also(if they made it), but I will stick with my 10w30. It's been great so far.

Dan

 

Mobil 1's 0w40 behaves very similar to a 10w40, it's viscosity at 40c is similar to many 10w40 oils, the difference is that when it gets much colder, the 0w40 will flow much faster.

I'm currently using German made 0w30 Castrol. It's sold here under the Syntec label but it's actually Formula SLX. It's a very thick 30wt oil, almost 40wt.

It is my belief that the LT1 is better off with an oil that has a viscosity of between 12-14 cst at 100c, so this means it likes a very thick 30wt to a low 40wt oil. Oils that fit this range are Amsoil 5w30, 10w30 and 10w40, Redline 5w30 and 10w30, German Castrol 0w30 and Mobil 1 0w40, as well as a few others (although these are the ones which tend to perform better)

I'm very impressed with the oil analysis results I've seen with this 0w30 Castrol so far in other vehicles (including my sister's Honda) and will have my own oil analysis on my LT1 in a few weeks.

 

Sorry, 0w40. I know they dont make 10w40, but 0 works fine. Unless you live in Alaska, you wont notice the differnce between 10 and 0

 

the slippery kind

 

I used to run Valvoline durablend 10w30. W/ my new job, I get a pretty good price on Royal Purple so I switched to that. First I used their 10w30... I noticed w/ it I'd start to lose oil pressure as I brought the RPM's up past 4000 rpms. I called up Royal Purple and they said this could be considered normal as their lubricating efforts or whatever don't need as much pressure. Basically, the answer was it's nothing to worry about.

I went to the track w/ it and after a quick nitrous pass my check gauges light came on and I had 0 oil pressure. Killed the car as soon as i saw that. Then figured.. eh... time for a rebuild, this sucks! And fired the car back up to return back to the pits. Car started back up just fine.

The next day I pulled the 10/30 out and put in some 20/50. Since then, everything has been fine. Oil pressure goes up and stays up at WOT. When it's time for my next oil change, I'm going to try some 0w30 synergen synthedic oil. A friend of mine is a distributor and we traded my RP for his synergen stuff.

 

Mobil 1 Synthetic

 

Mobil 1 full synthetic. 5w30 on summer, 10w30 on winter.

 

I like to keep my car original. I think changing the oil will decrease the value of the car.. so i just keep the original in there..

 

i had a buddy who did that but it turns out the car wasnt worth so much when the engine went after like 20k

 

This has to be a joke!

 

It's true Mobil 30 is thin but what I'm gonna do...thanks to Patman.... is mix the 10-40 with the 15-50(I believe) and it will make a good 40w.