What happens if you warped your heads??
What happens if you warped your heads??
just wondering i have heard a lot about it lately if your engine gets to hot it can warp your heads so i'm wondering what are the symptoms of warped heads?
If you get a head hot enough to warp it significantly and lose gaskets, then you also run the risk of softening it. Generally it'll get softest between the two adjacent exhaust ports. When this happens, you'll usually blow out that narrow section of the gasket. In a situation like that where you've got crossfire between cylinders, it can erode (as in blow out chunks) the cylinder head or block & trash either/or.
Generally on street stuff we like to see a minimum HRb 45 between those ports. If you're worried, find someone around you with a hardness tester and have it tested, it should cost next to nothing and is definitely worth it. Oftentimes theyll only be soft at that center section, and sufficiently hard out on the deck of the head. In that case, there's two options... re-heat treat the entire cylinder head, or remove that material and build it back up with an aluminum alloy of sufficient hardness. IMO, the first option is probably a waste of time on cheap street stuff, because after it's treated you'll need to go back and have every machined surface/guidehole re-machined so they're true & properly located. The latter option isn't as big a deal. The centersection is ground away, and simply built back up via welding. To be hard enough without being heat treated however, you end up having to use a pretty expensive welding rod, but I honestly can't recall the name of it.
Overheating aluminum heads is a bad idea... if you think you're doing it, STOP & figure out what's up before you toast your stuff
.
-Phil
Generally on street stuff we like to see a minimum HRb 45 between those ports. If you're worried, find someone around you with a hardness tester and have it tested, it should cost next to nothing and is definitely worth it. Oftentimes theyll only be soft at that center section, and sufficiently hard out on the deck of the head. In that case, there's two options... re-heat treat the entire cylinder head, or remove that material and build it back up with an aluminum alloy of sufficient hardness. IMO, the first option is probably a waste of time on cheap street stuff, because after it's treated you'll need to go back and have every machined surface/guidehole re-machined so they're true & properly located. The latter option isn't as big a deal. The centersection is ground away, and simply built back up via welding. To be hard enough without being heat treated however, you end up having to use a pretty expensive welding rod, but I honestly can't recall the name of it.
Overheating aluminum heads is a bad idea... if you think you're doing it, STOP & figure out what's up before you toast your stuff
.-Phil
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