Callies "Dragonslayer" or Scat 4340 forging (a little less expensive but Chinese). Get the Dragonslayer direct from Callies along with the rest of your engine "kit". Good prices and service.

Rich Krause

 

Rk, lol...I wish I was still in the "kit" buying process. Did you not really read my entire post, but rather skim it over?!?! I have all the parts and have already balanced the assembly once, but with stock crank. I have decided last minute not to run that risk and to run a good crank....so Ill have to deal with balancing prices again amoung allmy other mess ups along this buildup.

Anyhow, Im going to look into the crank on ebay before anything else. It meets the requirements I have(pretty much, little low on HP but im hoping the built in "safety zone (ie. good for a few %more hp than rated)" will cover that) and is very affordable. I found a main seal swap kit from summit(thanks Mike383) but will have to wait till I can call and confirm its what I need tomorrow. If thats the case, I will be settling for the ebay crank. If money was no object, sure I would buy the callies. But, Im already 11k to deep into this winter project and starting to struggle with funds so I think Ill have to settle for what I can afford, but still support my needs. Thanks!

 

Ooops, you caught me. I just skimmed it. Balancing is not cheap, as it seems you already know. I just bought a rotating assy. and spent nearly $300 in Mallory metal plus the cost of the balancing

Those rear seal adapters leak, so be prepared for that as it is almost inevitable, from what I have seen. As far as the eBay crank, it's a real crapshoot. It could be a fantastic bargain or a POS or anything in between. Who knows? I'd keep the car off the road until I could afford a "name" brand, but that's just me. Better off with the Scat "cast steel" crank, IMHO. Have you checked that one out?

Good luck and sorry for not reading a bit more carefully.

Rich Krause

 

Damn it...I had a feeling they would be prone to leaking. Hoepfully Ill get lucky if I go that rout and get a leak free setup.<--wishful thinking

Yeah, I know all about the cost of mallory metal now days. When I took my stock crank/parts to be balanced they said, ah yeah...we can do it for $200. They call to say that(and the resurfaced flywheel) are done. Your total is $404 Apparently, that hidden $150 came from the mallory metal they had to add and balance.

Anyhow, I hope thats not the case with the next crank. They said they would hook me up(since they have already gotten about $1200 of mine for magnalfux block, machine, 4bolt mains and balancing work a few times) and do the next crank for around $100-150 and not tax me much for any of the metal if needed. Hopefully, these cranks really are within +/- 2grams like the guy said. That will really help me out with them damn balancing fees.


BTW...so youre telling me a Scat cast crank rated at about 500hp and 6500rpm is better than a crank rated a 700hp and 7000rpm!?!? Are we talking about the same crank here? Send me a link to one if possible. Thanks!

 

I really don't care if the Eagle crank is made in ghetto land....they are proven on the track. I haven't heard of any issues with the Eagle cranks but have with the callies (on supercharged motors). They're both good cranks but i'm glad I chose the Eagle crank. There are too many turbo motors running great with no problems out of the Eagles. I wouldn't make my decision base on where it was made. Just my 2 cents.

Joe