Im not really sure where to start. The car seems to run really good. It doesnt miss or anything. When I drive it and get on it the power doesnt feel like it drops off or anything. Maybe my rockers need re-adjusted?? The fuel pump is practically brand new. Opti spark is less then 3 years old with about 8k miles. Here's the video. http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...oid=2031508928

 

It's hard to tell from the vid, but it doesn't sound right for some reason. Get some AFR readings and get it to Ion and see what he can do.

 

There is definitely something wrong there, be it with the dyno or the car, like I said go to another dyno.

 

According to the operator and my dyno graph. The A/F is at 13 and doesnt move, all the way across, its a solid straight line. It doesnt fluctuate at all. Is this kind of odd?? What would he have had to hook up in order to read A/F??

 

Thanks. The barometric pressure is way way way off on his dyno and he needs to get it calibrated. It should read in the 29.xx range not in the nineteens. That is why the SAE figure is so high.

The temperature is about 10 degrees high from standard and the humidity being 50% when the correction is zero. So when SAE corrected you should have a little more power than shown from those two factors.

The standard barometric pressure is 29.92. So if the pressure was higher at the time of the dyno pull you would have to subtract some horsepower. If it was lower you would add some horsepower.

There is a good chance the uncorrected horsepoer may not be to far off depending on what the barometric pressure was at the time of the pull. Your local weather station would have the measurement.

 

If your car isn't equipped with a cat then a wideband O2 sensor in your exhaust (just installed at the tip) can give you accurate AFR. If it has all emissions equipment then before the cats. But it's not normal for the AFR to be 13.000 all the way across... my guess is it wasn't hooked up.


Also it's kind of hard to read your dyno graph... What gear did you dyno in and what RPM range?

 

I think the dyno operator needs to be shot. I don't think those curves have anything to do with your motor. It looks as though the spark inductor lost connection to the wire which would explain the loss of a torque curve, but doesn't explain why your dyno graph looks like the f-ing Clossus ride at Magic Mountain! If your curve was truly like that you'd definately know there was something wrong. I swear to God.. is that an actual LOOP just past 5K on the hp curve?
Get a second opinion and hopefully using an accurate dyno not being operated by Clyde the arangotang.

 

That dyno graph is beyond ****ed up..

 

Like I said, go to another dyno.

 

HAHA, yes that is a loop and I dont know where the hell it came from. I dont understand why the graph is so wavy, my car seems to run fine. I would think I could feel the car if the power was dropping and climbing like it was. I guess I will have to find another dyno. Also, doesnt the car usually get dynod in 3rd gear and thats the only gear? In the video it looks/sounds like he shifted the car. IDK.

Also, I didnt see him hook anything up for the A/F reading. He hooked up the connector to the #1 plug wire and thats it. I didnt see him connect anything else. Then I ask what my A/F was and he says it was 13.00000000 all the way across. Which I thought was kinda strange, my guess is he didnt hook it up and that is the default reading or something.

 

this is what Im seeing... a shift spike from the 2nd to 3rd shift, thats the crazy looking loop...try to start the run in third..you may not get any data below 3000 or wherever RPM it is you need to stay over to stop the kick down into 2nd

and a dyno with the sample filter value set at to high..thats why its not smooth..the sample rate is 100 times a second and it makes the printout look
nasty

SAE correction is way off.. due to the ber. pressure

the 290ish rwhp and rwtq look good...

the guy running the dyno is a retard.