LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Well, its still not starting

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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 03:22 PM
  #16  
Wild1's Avatar
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This is good news. You're working on the bugs. Don't forget your bleeder valves on your cooling system. Sounds like you are very close.
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 04:40 PM
  #17  
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Well right now everything is hooked up except my vortech elbow, and MAF. I have two issues as of now:

1. The car will start and run, but I always have to give it a little gas if it has been sitting for a little while. If I turn it off after it is warmed up right away, it will start without me giving it any gas but it will start very weakly. What could be causing all of this?

2. The temps rise uncomfortably high after it runs for a while. I did open the bleeder screws but coolant never really leaked out, it just kinda fizzed and spurted a little. And the hoses don't seem to be full of coolant quite yet, but after I turn the car off, it will leak a little coolant from somewhere (not positive where yet, but somewhere near the radiator cap it seems) It's almost acting like its overfilled when hot, but I don't think it can be overfilled if the hoses aren't even full yet??? I'm a little lost with the coolant thing so far, but I'm working on it, any help would be appreciated.

BTW it sounds awesome when it gets warmed up and idles on its own! I can't wait to drive her
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 04:57 PM
  #18  
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geat news, its alive!
see how it runs with the maf and elbo hooked up. it will help the idle to have a maf input. also try opening the bleeder screws on the hoses with the engine off and the cap off keep adding coolant to the radiato as the level falls and wait untill a steady stream of coolant starts coming out. this will make filling a little easyer.
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 05:00 PM
  #19  
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You should have the cap open while it's running and fill it up until it won't take any more 50/50. Be sure the coolant is flowing inside the radiator when you do it. While this is going on, loosen the bleed screws momentarily until coolant comes out. Top off the radiator and close it up. Let it cool over night if possible and recheck the level the next day. Top off that and the coolant recovery tank as nec.
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 05:05 PM
  #20  
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Oil pressure is THROUGH THE ROOF! The needle off the gauge! I didn.t do anything with the oil yet at all, didn't drain it, change it or anything. What could that be from?
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 06:43 PM
  #21  
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broken sending unit?
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 07:23 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by hey01
broken sending unit?
I have no idea. Is that something I would know if I broke while I was working? I don't remember anything else being broken.

Something just came to my attention though. I deleted my EGR and everything that goes with it. I have the block off plates installed. But I didn't use any sealant on any of the 3 plates. Could this cause a vacuum leak or something? If so, that may be the cause of my weak starts right? I know they were clamped down tight on the back of the manifold, but it is air, so I'm sure it easily slip through.
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 07:46 PM
  #23  
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Yup, I broke the sending unit... so that should take care of the oil pressure problem once I get a new one.

What about the EGR plates I mentioned in the last post?
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 09:49 PM
  #24  
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you should use sealer or a gasket it could cause an vacum leak if you dont.
Old Jan 5, 2008 | 02:36 PM
  #25  
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You can always spray WD40 or Carb Cleaner around the block off plates, if the RPMs increase then they are sucking air. Becareful around a hot engine or sparks or you could really light things up.
Old Jan 5, 2008 | 02:48 PM
  #26  
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I installed my elbow and MAF and it starts up MUCH better now. I notice it is ticking a lot so I guess I have to re-adjust my rockers. I'm gonna try it with the engine running to save some time. I'm just waiting on that oil pressure sending unit. Ordered it last night with next day shipping.
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