Well, its still not starting
Many of you already know about my problems with trying to get my car started after my h/c swap. Well, it turns out my timing WAS off. I fixed it, but now it's still not starting. Instead of popping like it did before, now it just kinda cranks. I did relash the valves when I was in there as well. And right now thats the only thing I can think of as the problem.
I'm thinking about taking the valve covers off and loosening all the rockers to see if that will get it started and maybe I can readjust again when the engine is running? I'm running out of ideas here unless (God forbid) my cam is bad...
Any other ideas?
I'm thinking about taking the valve covers off and loosening all the rockers to see if that will get it started and maybe I can readjust again when the engine is running? I'm running out of ideas here unless (God forbid) my cam is bad...
Any other ideas?
The spark plugs are new, but I did bang them around a little while putting the headers back on. I'll replace them anyways. Opti is installed correctly, wires are routed correctly. Fuel pressure was normal at the schrader valve. Two questions:
1. How exactly do I test for spark?
2. How exactly do I tell if fuel is getting through the injectors properly, and not just the schrader?
Thanks
1. How exactly do I test for spark?
2. How exactly do I tell if fuel is getting through the injectors properly, and not just the schrader?
Thanks
You can either remove the plug and lay it against the block while cranking the engine over to see if it has spark. Or you use an inline spark tester between the plug and wire to view spark. Obviously this is easier.
As for fuel, you will need a noid light to check for injector pulses. Other than a clogged injector, if it's got pulses and pressure, you assume it's getting into the cylinder.
However the old time method is a still good to see if the problem is fuel related or not. Simply squirt fuel in the intake while it's cranking over.
As for fuel, you will need a noid light to check for injector pulses. Other than a clogged injector, if it's got pulses and pressure, you assume it's getting into the cylinder.
However the old time method is a still good to see if the problem is fuel related or not. Simply squirt fuel in the intake while it's cranking over.
You can either remove the plug and lay it against the block while cranking the engine over to see if it has spark. Or you use an inline spark tester between the plug and wire to view spark. Obviously this is easier.
As for fuel, you will need a noid light to check for injector pulses. Other than a clogged injector, if it's got pulses and pressure, you assume it's getting into the cylinder.
However the old time method is a still good to see if the problem is fuel related or not. Simply squirt fuel in the intake while it's cranking over.
As for fuel, you will need a noid light to check for injector pulses. Other than a clogged injector, if it's got pulses and pressure, you assume it's getting into the cylinder.
However the old time method is a still good to see if the problem is fuel related or not. Simply squirt fuel in the intake while it's cranking over.
Thanks
you might want to go to shoeboxes website and look at the wiring diagram so you can check to see if the coil and icm are getting power and ground. also have you checked all the fuses?
also you can get an inline spark tester from an auto supply store for around ten dollars. its well worth the investment and is the eayist and most reliable way to check for spark.
you say the sparkplugs are new. new when you did the swap or scince you have relashed the valves. if they were replaced when you did the h/c swap they may be fouled out due to the incorrect timing. if you used a colder heat range ngk plug they are prone to foul easily. one of my friends with a 13:1 compression ls race car went trough five sets before his car made a single pass. once again good luck i really want to hear you say you go it running. its ususally the small things that throw you for a loop. you will prbably figure it out and kivk yourself for not thinking of it sooner.
edit: sorry i just read you used ac delco plugs. still might be a problem?
also you can get an inline spark tester from an auto supply store for around ten dollars. its well worth the investment and is the eayist and most reliable way to check for spark.
you say the sparkplugs are new. new when you did the swap or scince you have relashed the valves. if they were replaced when you did the h/c swap they may be fouled out due to the incorrect timing. if you used a colder heat range ngk plug they are prone to foul easily. one of my friends with a 13:1 compression ls race car went trough five sets before his car made a single pass. once again good luck i really want to hear you say you go it running. its ususally the small things that throw you for a loop. you will prbably figure it out and kivk yourself for not thinking of it sooner.
edit: sorry i just read you used ac delco plugs. still might be a problem?
Last edited by greenmachinedriver; Jan 3, 2008 at 10:02 PM.
And as quoted above, i would throw a compression test on the list. Just too rule things out..
GOOD NEWS: sprayed starter fluid in... and SHE FIRED UP!
BAD NEWS: shut off after maybe 10 seconds
QUESTION: what should I do from here? I guess this means it is something to do with my injectors? They are brand new 38# delphi's and the computer is tuned for them. Any other possibilities?
BAD NEWS: shut off after maybe 10 seconds
QUESTION: what should I do from here? I guess this means it is something to do with my injectors? They are brand new 38# delphi's and the computer is tuned for them. Any other possibilities?
Do you need a Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) signal to get the injectors firing? Double check the connector to make sure it is seated as well as the short harness for the injectors.
The fact that it ran is good news which means you have compression and no interference damage from the timing being off.
The fact that it ran is good news which means you have compression and no interference damage from the timing being off.
Scratch the injector problem. I just had to keep the throttle open for a few minutes to get fuel flowing I guess. It's now idleing fine. I just have to hook up one of the fans yet, and get the coolant system sorted out because it was running hotter than usual.


