Well I think I found the problem inside my tranny *pics*
Well I think I found the problem inside my tranny *pics*
I'm pretty sure this is why my reverse gear pops out and grinds... This is the syncromesh correct? How do I take this out and flip it over? I took the ring out holding it in but it wont slide out.
http://kak.com/trans/DSCN1044.JPG
http://kak.com/trans/DSCN1045.JPG
http://kak.com/trans/DSCN1046.JPG
Also, these two pieces I found stuck to my magnet, can anyone identify these? I'm assuming it was for the tool Borg Warner used to expand the snap rings. I don't see where these could possibly be used inside the tranny.
http://kak.com/trans/DSCN1050.JPG
Pics of my ruined clutch disc
http://kak.com/trans/DSCN1047.JPG
http://kak.com/trans/DSCN1044.JPG
http://kak.com/trans/DSCN1045.JPG
http://kak.com/trans/DSCN1046.JPG
Also, these two pieces I found stuck to my magnet, can anyone identify these? I'm assuming it was for the tool Borg Warner used to expand the snap rings. I don't see where these could possibly be used inside the tranny.
http://kak.com/trans/DSCN1050.JPG
Pics of my ruined clutch disc
http://kak.com/trans/DSCN1047.JPG
OK the 2 pieces that were stuck to the magnet are halves of a button that holds the gear sleeve engaged to the gear. On the inner side of the mesh there are 3 slots. Each slot should have one of these buttons. There should be a ring there to hold tension on them which is what keeps the tranny in gear. You can see in the 3rd pic where 2 of them are in place but the 3rd (closest to the camera) is missing.....that's why your tanny pops out of reverse. It looks like the shift fork pads are worn completely away too....that'll also casue it to pop out of gear.
Also in the second pic it looks like the gear sleeve is cracked......that's probably the source of your grinding.
Here's the really bad news......you're going about it from the wrong end. In order to get the shift fork off, you have to dissassemble the shift rail mechanism which is in the top of the tranny almost all the way to the very front. This tranny is designed to be taken apart on a stand with the input shaft pointing straight up. You pull apart the shift rail mechanism, then take out the 3-4 gearset, then the 1-2 gearset. Then you flip it over and take off the tailshaft housing, and you can pull apart reverse and 5-6.
If you take off the front cover you MIGHT be able to wiggle the shafts around enough to get the reverse gear sleeve out past the shift fork. I somewhat doubt it but it's worth a try.
Also in the second pic it looks like the gear sleeve is cracked......that's probably the source of your grinding.
Here's the really bad news......you're going about it from the wrong end. In order to get the shift fork off, you have to dissassemble the shift rail mechanism which is in the top of the tranny almost all the way to the very front. This tranny is designed to be taken apart on a stand with the input shaft pointing straight up. You pull apart the shift rail mechanism, then take out the 3-4 gearset, then the 1-2 gearset. Then you flip it over and take off the tailshaft housing, and you can pull apart reverse and 5-6.
If you take off the front cover you MIGHT be able to wiggle the shafts around enough to get the reverse gear sleeve out past the shift fork. I somewhat doubt it but it's worth a try.
I removed the clip and that key before I took the pic, I have all 3 of them. I also got that shift fork off as well... Underneath the syncro I found that my syncro key retainer was cracked
Do you think that tranny shows would carry this item? Also can you give me a detailed explination on how the syncronizer gear is assembled? I realized after i took the clip off that I didnt have to and it all pulled up with the shift fork.
http://kak.com/trans/DSCN1053.JPG
Heres a pic of the broken retainer ring.
Now im assuming the 3 keys have to go in, then the two clips that put tension on the keys for both side. The clips have a little curve on the end of one side, im also assuming this goes into one of the keys to prevent the clip from spinning and letting one of the keys from falling out. Also, one more thing... How do they keep the retainer from not falling out and stay aligned? I know it rests on the 5/6 gear but that wouldnt help explain how it would stay aligned.
Do you think that tranny shows would carry this item? Also can you give me a detailed explination on how the syncronizer gear is assembled? I realized after i took the clip off that I didnt have to and it all pulled up with the shift fork. http://kak.com/trans/DSCN1053.JPG
Heres a pic of the broken retainer ring.
Now im assuming the 3 keys have to go in, then the two clips that put tension on the keys for both side. The clips have a little curve on the end of one side, im also assuming this goes into one of the keys to prevent the clip from spinning and letting one of the keys from falling out. Also, one more thing... How do they keep the retainer from not falling out and stay aligned? I know it rests on the 5/6 gear but that wouldnt help explain how it would stay aligned.
Originally posted by TheGreatJ
OK the 2 pieces that were stuck to the magnet are halves of a button that holds the gear sleeve engaged to the gear. On the inner side of the mesh there are 3 slots. Each slot should have one of these buttons. There should be a ring there to hold tension on them which is what keeps the tranny in gear. You can see in the 3rd pic where 2 of them are in place but the 3rd (closest to the camera) is missing.....that's why your tanny pops out of reverse. It looks like the shift fork pads are worn completely away too....that'll also casue it to pop out of gear.
Also in the second pic it looks like the gear sleeve is cracked......that's probably the source of your grinding.
Here's the really bad news......you're going about it from the wrong end. In order to get the shift fork off, you have to dissassemble the shift rail mechanism which is in the top of the tranny almost all the way to the very front. This tranny is designed to be taken apart on a stand with the input shaft pointing straight up. You pull apart the shift rail mechanism, then take out the 3-4 gearset, then the 1-2 gearset. Then you flip it over and take off the tailshaft housing, and you can pull apart reverse and 5-6.
If you take off the front cover you MIGHT be able to wiggle the shafts around enough to get the reverse gear sleeve out past the shift fork. I somewhat doubt it but it's worth a try.
OK the 2 pieces that were stuck to the magnet are halves of a button that holds the gear sleeve engaged to the gear. On the inner side of the mesh there are 3 slots. Each slot should have one of these buttons. There should be a ring there to hold tension on them which is what keeps the tranny in gear. You can see in the 3rd pic where 2 of them are in place but the 3rd (closest to the camera) is missing.....that's why your tanny pops out of reverse. It looks like the shift fork pads are worn completely away too....that'll also casue it to pop out of gear.
Also in the second pic it looks like the gear sleeve is cracked......that's probably the source of your grinding.
Here's the really bad news......you're going about it from the wrong end. In order to get the shift fork off, you have to dissassemble the shift rail mechanism which is in the top of the tranny almost all the way to the very front. This tranny is designed to be taken apart on a stand with the input shaft pointing straight up. You pull apart the shift rail mechanism, then take out the 3-4 gearset, then the 1-2 gearset. Then you flip it over and take off the tailshaft housing, and you can pull apart reverse and 5-6.
If you take off the front cover you MIGHT be able to wiggle the shafts around enough to get the reverse gear sleeve out past the shift fork. I somewhat doubt it but it's worth a try.
Now im angry, after its all assembled and put it in reverse (tranny still out of the car) and wiggle the reverse gear, it will still "pop out" and I don't even have to have the car running! it doesnt seem like the reverse gear is getting a big enough bite out of the syncromesh, or slack in the shifter. I'll bring it to D&D, may just need a bit of shimming.
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