waterpump weephole...
Re: waterpump weephole...
Originally Posted by 1quickTA
I did! I put in the freeze plug properly got everything all built up after the cam swap, fired it up and it was dripping coolant pretty quickly from that damn weephole. I popped a rivet into it from the bottom which slowed it down a lot and put some superglue over it for a temporary fix, then I had to take the EWP off again and JB weld around the freeze plug for a permanent fix. F***in' weephole!
If you don't get the freeze plug in too far or not far enough, I believe it will leak through the weep hole. We surrounded our freeze plugs with quick steel to make sure there were no leaks, the supplied plug just didn't look like a good seal to me.
Re: waterpump weephole...
Originally Posted by Javier97Z28
If you don't get the freeze plug in too far or not far enough, I believe it will leak through the weep hole. We surrounded our freeze plugs with quick steel to make sure there were no leaks, the supplied plug just didn't look like a good seal to me.
Re: waterpump weephole...
Originally Posted by Z28SORR
What do you think is in the sides of your engine?
Re: waterpump weephole...
Originally Posted by Javier97Z28
If you don't get the freeze plug in too far or not far enough, I believe it will leak through the weep hole. We surrounded our freeze plugs with quick steel to make sure there were no leaks, the supplied plug just didn't look like a good seal to me.
Re: waterpump weephole...
Originally Posted by 1SlowFormula
Did you install the plug from the inside or the outside of the housing?
Re: waterpump weephole...
Off topic a little but I work for a shipping company in the maintenance division. On our ThermoKing reefers, the generator water pumps have an insert with a hose barb that goes into the weep hole on the water pump. I am going to see if it will fit my water pump. That way you could run the hose below the opti.
Re: waterpump weephole...
The weep hole is the right size for a 1/4 tap (NC/NF). I did that, screwed a threaded rod in and hose clamped a length of clear tubing to it. Put in a couple loops to hold any leakage and it worked when the 2nd pump went.
Make it long enough and it drips a couple feet behind the opti.
Ps: Clamp it on before installing the pump, room is tight.
'94 M6, now with elec. pump (csr).
Make it long enough and it drips a couple feet behind the opti.
Ps: Clamp it on before installing the pump, room is tight.
'94 M6, now with elec. pump (csr).
Re: waterpump weephole...
Remove serpentine belt to get it out of the way, drain the radiator, cover the opti, some catchpants, 9/16" socket (a swivel would help for the one behind the p/s pump, but it's not necessary).. Remove 6 bolts, clean surface, put on gasket, replace pump. If I recall there's enough room to do it w/o taking the fans off, but if you run into space issues, those come off real easy as well.
I’ve read here the water pump isn’t a hard fix, but another professional mechanic told me it’s terrible. He says you practically have to take the engine apart. The worst part is the harmonic balance shaft on the opposite side of the pump from the distributor. He says it wouldn’t be so bad if it were pressed on but it’s bolted on. He said he did one and would never do another.
Re: waterpump weephole...
Find a new "professional mechanic" - he's hallucinating.
There is no "harmonic balance shaft" on an LT1 engine. There is a harmonic damper/pulley (not a balancer) bolted to a hub on the crankshaft. Very easy to remove 3 bolts and remove the damper/pulley from the hub, but if it's severely rusted may need a "puller" to break the rust free.
http://shbox.com/ci/balancer_hub.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/pull_pulley.jpg
BUT.... you don't need to remove the harmonic damper to replace the water pump.
The steps, from the factory service manual are:
- unplug coolant temp sensor
- remove fans (can be done without this - but it's tight)
- drain coolant (protect distributor with rags - our advice)
- remove air intake duct
- remove upper and lower radiator hoses
- remove heater hoses
- reposition coil/bracket (not really needed)
- remove AIR pump and bracket
- remove water pump bolts and screws
- remove water pump
- remove gaskets
- remove pump drive shaft coupling and water pump driveshaft seals
Shoebox has a diagram from the factory service manual:
http://shbox.com/ci/water_pump.jpg
Free download of 1996 factory service manual:
https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti
Water pump removal is covered on page 6B-19
There is no "harmonic balance shaft" on an LT1 engine. There is a harmonic damper/pulley (not a balancer) bolted to a hub on the crankshaft. Very easy to remove 3 bolts and remove the damper/pulley from the hub, but if it's severely rusted may need a "puller" to break the rust free.
http://shbox.com/ci/balancer_hub.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/pull_pulley.jpg
BUT.... you don't need to remove the harmonic damper to replace the water pump.
The steps, from the factory service manual are:
- unplug coolant temp sensor
- remove fans (can be done without this - but it's tight)
- drain coolant (protect distributor with rags - our advice)
- remove air intake duct
- remove upper and lower radiator hoses
- remove heater hoses
- reposition coil/bracket (not really needed)
- remove AIR pump and bracket
- remove water pump bolts and screws
- remove water pump
- remove gaskets
- remove pump drive shaft coupling and water pump driveshaft seals
Shoebox has a diagram from the factory service manual:
http://shbox.com/ci/water_pump.jpg
Free download of 1996 factory service manual:
https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti
Water pump removal is covered on page 6B-19
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Re: waterpump weephole...
I’ve read here the water pump isn’t a hard fix, but another professional mechanic told me it’s terrible. He says you practically have to take the engine apart. The worst part is the harmonic balance shaft on the opposite side of the pump from the distributor. He says it wouldn’t be so bad if it were pressed on but it’s bolted on. He said he did one and would never do another.
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Dan_the_ManZ28
LT1 Based Engine Tech
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Feb 21, 2015 02:01 PM



