My waterpump just went bad and I was thinking of going to an electric waterpump. Do you guys think this is the way to go? Also I understand that you have to push out the guts of the old waterpump and seal up the old drive port. Do you have worry about the waterpump drive spline that exits the timing cover? Does it need some kind of seal? Also what would be the best way to wre it up and is there an easy way to wire up a warning system incase of failure?

 

IMO on a street car where the last .1 at the track is not important then stay with a stock pump.

Most of the guys who push their use would fail a 3rd grade science exam.
The electrics free up power by moving less water period.
They are also vastly more likely to suddenly fail and overheat the engine as opposed to a stocker which usually weeps and causes the PS to slip a little warning you of failure LONG before it risks the engine.

 

Here's a nice discussion from the past, complete with flow rates:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho....php?p=4033199
Of course, both arguments are flawed. One side assumes that it takes 10 horsepower to flow the 65 gpm that the stock pump flows and that it would take a perpetual energy system to use less power to flow the same amount as the stocker. The reality is that assumption is clearly false. If you look at a completely unrelated system, a household sump pump for example, you can see that a 1 horsepower system can flow 90 gpm at 0" hydrostatic head...essentially no load. If we assume a 35% pumping efficiency loss running through the engine then you have the same output as the stock, mechanically driven system. This would seem to indicate that the stock pump is grossly inefficient in taking 10 HP to do the same job. It's easy to see how an electric pump could lead to a power gain...by not using as much power to begin with. If the efficiency of both pumps were the same, the HP of the mechanical pump equipped engine would be higher at lower rpm, reaching the same at the rpm where the flow rates are the same and then dropping off at higher rpm. A dyne run comparison at ws6.com doesn't show that...it shows equal HP up to a certain rpm then a fall off for the mechanical pump...where it flows more coolant.

The fact is that the stock pump flows more coolant than the electric pumps available.....at higher rpms. No doubt about it. And the mechanical pumps higher flow rate leads to cooler temperatures at those higher rpms. Again, no doubt.

There are plenty of pluses and minuses in both systems. I choose to run an electric pump for quicker cool down at the track and for cooler temps in daily driving at moderate rpm levels. Yes electric pumps can fail with no warning. Yes, mechanical pumps usually leak before they fail, leading to distributor cap problems. Lots of trade offs......nothing that can't be lived with in either case.

If this means I would flunk a third grade science test so be it..

 

The shop that built my engine refused to install an electric water pump. They had evidence to support their claim that the pump would not flow sufficient coolant when the engine was at max RPM (7,000) running a 300-shot of nitrous. They wanted the maximum coolant flow to insure there were no hot spots that could lead to disasterous detonation.

Given the fact they had built LT1 engines ranging up to 1,100HP, I trusted their advice.

 

Most folks with basic observation skills notice the electrics begin to run warmer as viewed through the pcm by cruise rpm even in cool weather.

Far as efficiency there is a gain with the electrics in that when engine rpm is accelerating the water is NOT accelerating which is certainly where some of the 10hp load of the mechanical goes to.

FACT of the matter though is the mechanical moves 66gpm at 4800 engine rpm per SAE through the closed system even against a closed thermostat.
The electrics are FREEFLOW rated 30-55gpm as in no restriction. They are a simple impeller not positive displacement like an oil pump, so restriction makes a big difference.

Electrics are adequate nothing more, they are beginning to lose control of engine temp by a sustained 2300rpm or so as documented by raised temps at the waterpump, doesn't much show up on the dash.

Yes they free up power to the wheels, yes they allow quicker cooldown for racing.

 

Thanks guys, a wealth of information. After reading I believe I will be visting my local Big A and replacing with a rebuilt unit. I don't want any more issues. I've had enough of them as of late. Sounds like this is the best and easiest way to go. Thanks for all the help!!!

 

For those that do decide on an electric let's just go ahead and mention it is best to buy TWO so you have a spare. With the mechanical replacements are usually just at the next parts store so having a spare is not important, plus the fact they usually give you notice.