Here it is for those who are interested.

http://www.beforethe.com/mufflex/230236mufflex.avi

(right click and save target as)

 

sounds very good... longtubes as well?

 

That sound bad A$$
What else do you have done to it?

 

 

Sounds great, the best part is when you scared the camera man when you revved. Nice and mean, more importantly than how it sounds, how does it drive?

-Dustin-

 

I can vouch for the cam, since I have the same one
it runs like a bat out of hell, taking it to track in the morning

 

Dont wanna hijack this thread, but I had a thread posted earlier about cam lopeyness, maybe some of you have read it. I downloaded this movie clip and I think this sounds lopey enough for me, I wouldnt want anyting more than this, would the hotcam sound like this? Hows the power on this? Would you also get a good low end? If you get your heads to match this XE cam would you be close to 380-390 HP or more? Thanks guys
Mike

 

Hotcam is nothing like this! The hotcam isn't a very good cam I don't think. If you are going to change your cam, may as well do it right the first time. With and auto, I would go EX224/230, or the Comp 305 Cam. With a stick I would go with this cam or the Comp 306 Cam.

 

very nice

 

Thanks so far for all the comments

To answer some questions:

I had all the work done this summer:
stock TB ported to 52mm
stock heads and intake ported locally
cam kit from combination motorsports
(comp cam, comp 1.6 rr's, cm pushrods, guideplates, and cm 612 valvesprings and retainers) I also bought comp R lifters, 7/16" rocker studs and a stock replacement timing chain.
The exhaust is hooker LT's flowing into mufflex y-pipe (no cat) and exhaust with spintech, no emissions.
I also bought LT4 28# injectors and had it tuned by PCMforless.
I bought everything I needed (besides the cam kit) used from the for sale section of this website or from Jason Cromer

It drives great although I have some things I need to sort out next season like it needs some fine tuning. The tune from bryan was good but I think it may be running a little rich; I'm either going to dyno tune it or log a few runs and send the PCM back to him to see what he can do. And also I would like to get some 4.10 gears. CMotorsports actually strongly recommended that I get gears to fully apreciate the top end of the cam, but I was on a tight budget so that was one of the things I didn't get. The gears should also eliminate the little bit of surging I get in the lower RPM (1500-1800) as well as supposedly giving a good SOTP difference. The low-RPM power (below 3000) I think leaves a bit to be desired, but that's probably due to the fact that the whole powerband of the car has been moved higher and the fact that I have absolutely no backpressure in my exhaust.

96LT1TX good luck at the track, let me know what you run

Mike44Mike, the cam sounds lopey, but with fine tuning and emissions components (if they are required in your area) it will sound more tame. I am actually thinking of getting a high flow cat just to make it less noisy and smell less. The cam is bigger than the hot cam, with all the supporting mods and a good set of heads, as well as a good tune this cam has the potential to put down 360-390 hp (I'm not quite there yet but I did dyno 87 whp and 62 wtq higher than I did at the begining of the summer before I put in the cam and other stuff) Also note that you may not pass emissions in your area with this cam (I am from quebec and don't know what it's like down there) whereas the LT4 hot cam may pass emissions. Also, I went with an off the shelf cam kit mainly for low cost reasons. If money is not an issue to you then I strongly recommend one of Lloyd Elliott's custom head/cam packages however as you'll make more power without a doubt. .

 

Thanks bro, I really like your cam alot. Thanks for the advice too. I might as well go with the best cam I can get now instead of getting the LT4 hotcam and realizing I will want to swap again. So I should go with the Xe 230/236 112LSA, and port my heads well with some Longtube headers, and I should be in the 390RWHP range. Correct?
Anyhow, what is the RWHP on a dodge viper? Isnt it also around 390-410RWHP?

 

You are going to need some stuff to go along with those heads, LTs, and cam. Make sure you get the right springs, a free flow exhaust (cutout is the cheapest bet), heavy duty timing chain, some other smaller stuff. Make sure you have all the components that can handle the motor spinning up in the higher RPM range (6200-6500). Good luck with it.

 

The Biz is right. How much power you make with this cam is going to depend on how high you spin it. If you buy ALL the components that he listed, like upgraded lifters, dual valvesprings, and heavy duty timing set which will require you to switch to an electric waterpump or vented opti setup (depending on which timing set you buy) then you will be able to spin to 6500 or 6800 safely and probably make closer to 400 rwhp. Although I don't know if I would feel safe spinning it that high on a regular basis with stock bottom end especially if your car has higher miles (I'm sure you've read by now all the threads about spun bearings, etc..)

In my case, I skimped out on alot of those things (to save money) but also said to myself that I would not past 6200 very often with the cutoff reprogrammed at 6500.