Ok the dash is apart and the harness is unplugged.
http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/users/3f3e7...K4h2ABYmP0XwG2

Here is my resistor.
http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/users/3f3e7...L4h2ABoeGPzHc.

Now, Where they hell do I put the resistor? Help me pleeeeease! Thanks!

 

I cut off the last about 2 inches from the wiring harness on the side of the plug that goes to the steering column and then unplugged it. I believe that is the one that has the orange sleeve over it. I stripped the ends of the wires and soldered the resistors in there. After taping the whole mess up, I plugged it back in under the dash. That was it. This way, if someday you get a new ignition cylinder, all they will have to do is plug it in. The wiring harness on the car remains untouched - it's the replaceable part that goes to the lock cylinder that you cut.

BRAD

 

I was actually told to put the resisters on the siede that does not lead up to the colum which is the right side on your picture. But im wondering if i did it correctly because i see no difference, still have to follow same procedure, turn switch halfway then wait for sound then start the engine. But cant tell since im using the key with the resistance. But sincei did it it hasnt failed on me once like it did before.

 

Come on guys I have pics! HELP ME PLEASE!!!!

 

I am planning on bypassing my VATS this weekend. All the VATS system does is measure the resistance of the key and if it is the correct key, the module will turn on a relay which grounds a wire, thus allowing you to start your car. The simplest thing to do is get a wiring diagram, locate the ignition wire going to the relay, cut it, and ground it. I will try doing it this way and let everyone know how it went.

 

I can't see them when I click. Seems llafro gave you the info that you should need.

 

Those 2 statements contradict each other. I dont know where to put the pics so you can see them. Shoebox you said someting about plugging the resistor into the harness. Can you elaborate?

 

Not contradictory at all. He cut the side going to the steering column, then unplugged the connector so he could work on it out of the car, installed his resistor(s) onto the piece of wire with the connector on it (one side of the resistor goes to one lead and the other side of the resistor to the other lead), then went back and plugged that into the connector that goes to the VATS.

So, it's like a little module that you can plug in. The rationale being that you don't hack up the VATS side of the harness and you will be able to plug in a new key cylinder lead if you ever decide to replace it.

 

I have an idea..........if someone can perform this bypass with step by step pictures I WILL PAY YOU!

 

Gee, how much? I might be tempted to go out and take pics and write one up.

 

sent you an IM with a writeup

 

Added some detail to a pic I had.