Valve guide wear?
FACT of the matter is JAKEJR read a few books and put together a car WITHOUT any measure of IF IT ACTUALLY WORKS. Problem is he talks a good game, like a politician. Sounds good, the average person swallows his load of baloney hook line and sinker but that does not mean he has the vaguest of clues. Run the car, PROVE it works then maybe you will have some meaningful input.
Injuneer, rskrause posted some very good information and maybe just as importantly explained why JAKEJR's method was published by GM and how it is NOT done for accuracy but rather speed.
We are commonly running 30% more lift than stock and easily 50%+ more spring pressure on the seat. Stands to reason that what is servicably sloppy OEM upper tolerance would not be right given these greater demands.
wrd1972, that video is why Rob sold off his old setup and replaced it with the current one.
Injuneer, rskrause posted some very good information and maybe just as importantly explained why JAKEJR's method was published by GM and how it is NOT done for accuracy but rather speed.
We are commonly running 30% more lift than stock and easily 50%+ more spring pressure on the seat. Stands to reason that what is servicably sloppy OEM upper tolerance would not be right given these greater demands.
wrd1972, that video is why Rob sold off his old setup and replaced it with the current one.
FACT of the matter is JAKEJR read a few books and put together a car WITHOUT any measure of IF IT ACTUALLY WORKS. Problem is he talks a good game, like a politician. Sounds good, the average person swallows his load of baloney hook line and sinker but that does not mean he has the vaguest of clues. Run the car, PROVE it works then maybe you will have some meaningful input.
Cap,
So are you saying the old setup caused the valve guide wear and the new seup should not?
I will send you a PM with the link to that.
Guess this really comes down to who has better advise to give? The guy with the fast bench, or the one with the fast car??
Personally I would rather listen to the guy with the fast car.
Guess this really comes down to who has better advise to give? The guy with the fast bench, or the one with the fast car??
Personally I would rather listen to the guy with the fast car.
Last edited by 96capricemgr; Feb 5, 2010 at 09:04 AM.
There is an official GM procedure (simpler less precise easier to do).
And a "fast car" precision procedure. (more precise but harder to do).
Both are correct in the proper context and what Jake said was valid for the first and what Injuneer and RS said are valid for the second.
__________________
88 RX7 10AE with LT1/M6 conversion. forged pistons and rods 383. 12.4 SCR / 9.4 DCR. Comp Cams 236/242 112 LSA, worked AFR 190's, 58MM TB, CC 1.6 Pro Mags. My own tune.
95 M6 Firehawk #588, original engine taken to 383. Sold...
88 RX7 10AE with LT1/M6 conversion. forged pistons and rods 383. 12.4 SCR / 9.4 DCR. Comp Cams 236/242 112 LSA, worked AFR 190's, 58MM TB, CC 1.6 Pro Mags. My own tune.
95 M6 Firehawk #588, original engine taken to 383. Sold...
Besides the fact it looks like this is probably on the AFR's not stock heads, if the guide length is atall different then the stock procedure tolerance goes completely out the window anyway.
[QUOTE=wrd1972;6257208]Again I see it as a matter of context. And again, you are taking it out of context and making personal attacks. QUOTE]
Thanks for taking note of his repeated behavior.
I blocked him awhile ago in the hope of not seeing any more of his negative posts and personal attacks, but I now see that it didn't work. So the very next time I come across yet another personal attack directed at me or any other member, I'll contact the Forum Administrator and asked that he be banned.
Repeated violations of Forum Rules, such as personal attacks, will not be tolerated.
Jake
Thanks for taking note of his repeated behavior.
I blocked him awhile ago in the hope of not seeing any more of his negative posts and personal attacks, but I now see that it didn't work. So the very next time I come across yet another personal attack directed at me or any other member, I'll contact the Forum Administrator and asked that he be banned.
Repeated violations of Forum Rules, such as personal attacks, will not be tolerated.
Jake
This is not actually on topic but I'm posting it just as some background so all will see I know which end of the spark plug goes in the hole. Here's a shot of me about to warm the engine before time trials.
Car ran 8-teens to mid-8s in the quarter mile (depending on whether the stupid trans brake worked - LOL) at 175.xx MPH. Car had tons of Top End which really added spice to my life, LOL.
Engine is one of mine, a .+100" over BB, N/A. Reverse manual valve body TH400 trans and an 8" converter; 4.88 gear. Tried a built Power Glide but it burned up after three passes. Fortunately it failed in the traps, so I still won the trophy/$$$.
At those speeds, seeing over the tunnel ram was the REAL problem, ESPECIALLY AT NIGHT, since the engine sat directly in front of me.
Ask me about the time the drive shaft broke when I pulled 2nd gear, then it bounced off the track, back up and hit me right in the crack of my a** -LOL Ruined my day.

Jake
Car ran 8-teens to mid-8s in the quarter mile (depending on whether the stupid trans brake worked - LOL) at 175.xx MPH. Car had tons of Top End which really added spice to my life, LOL.
Engine is one of mine, a .+100" over BB, N/A. Reverse manual valve body TH400 trans and an 8" converter; 4.88 gear. Tried a built Power Glide but it burned up after three passes. Fortunately it failed in the traps, so I still won the trophy/$$$.
At those speeds, seeing over the tunnel ram was the REAL problem, ESPECIALLY AT NIGHT, since the engine sat directly in front of me.
Ask me about the time the drive shaft broke when I pulled 2nd gear, then it bounced off the track, back up and hit me right in the crack of my a** -LOL Ruined my day.

Jake
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