if ya valves arent adjusted right will that give map codes(low vaccum) and make the car run sh^&%y? i have a constant miss and when i try to stall up the car wont clear up at all trying to stall up. i think imma give up on trying to race i just want my car running right at some point. i guess ill just get some wheels and stereo cause i have no luck racing. can someone else give me suggestions please. ive replaced the whole ignition system with a new everything. have new injectors so i dont guess they are stopped up or anything.

 

How did you adjust them and how much preload did you put on them? If you put too much preload, you might not get full compression and the car will run really badly. Have you checked your fuel pressure at the manifold? Check to make sure your plug wires aren't arcing.

 

when my rockers were too tight it caused a backfire, and the car didnt want to idle on its own... rockers improperly adjusted can cause some major issues, we had them so tight the first time that i adjusted them that it snapped a chrome-moly pushrod in half. also it didnt want to rev up either.

 

Adjusting valves is easy. This is my method.

1) Install pushrods and rocker arms

2) By hand install all of the locking nuts (do not install locks at this time, compleetly remove them and set them aside).

3) Turn the engine over untill some of the valves are in the open posion. Keep rotating the crank untill you observe maximum lift. You don't need a dial indicator here just close 'nuf.

4) You are now ready to adjust the adjasent rocker arm of the same cylinder.

Note: Step #3 insures that the lifter is on the base circle of the cam. If the lifter is any where on the lift part you will adjust the rockers wrong! This is because you are now tightening against the valve spring and lifter, this will make the rocker higher than it needs to be. You will notice that on the next engine rotation that particular rocker will not be adjusted right. Step #3 also assumes that the intake is on the engine and you can't see the lifters.

5) Loosen the adjusting nut untill the rocker just flopps arround.

6) Begin tightening the nut by hand while lifting up and down on the rocker arm on the push rod side. (forget that spin push rod garbage )

7) Continue tightening by hand untill the rocker arm has no vertical movement. This is zero lash.

8) At this point a decision needs to be made with regard to your preload setting. A stock hydraulic lifter takes between 1/4 and 1/2 turn, still other lifters require less like 1/16th tun, and some lifters either run at zero or with lash in which case you would need a feeler gauge. Consult the lifter manufactureure for this part.

9) Install the nut lock. Thread them in by hand.

10) Grab a box end wrench and hold back the nut while you tighten the lock. Use a medium length allen wrench and snug it down pretty tight. I typically use my thumb untill I get some wrench deflection.

11) Lastly take the box end wrench and tighten the nut another degree or two. This will ensure that the locks are set.
NOTE: When removing the nut (for any reason) don't break them loose at the lock. Instead, loosen the nut first then hold back the nut while you remove the lock. This will help preserve the threads on the locks and nuts.

Thats it! Then continue down the line roating and adjusting untill you run out of locks.

If this is ok, then try checking your FP (probably should do this first). If that's not it, try checking your firing order, make sure that all the plug wires are in the right place. Having low vaccume is normal, especially with the cam in your sig. Did you get a mail order tune for your new injectors (assuming they are bigger than stock)? If not then this will cause big problem. Other than that, make sure every thing is pluged in where it's supposed to be. Good luck, and hang in there.

 

I like doing it while the motor is running.

 

Yes,yours are some of the exact symptons.
Do it running and 1/4 turn for stock lifters.

BOOM----boom--.