What I found was my poly locks keep coming loose. Causing the push rods to fall out of place and bend.

To stop this I had to set nut to zero lash, run the set screw all the way down, then turn nut 1/4 turn to really tighten them.

Has anyone else had this problem and what solution did you use?

Old Thread:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=723787

 

Yes. I read about this quite often on the 8 or more different Forums I visit. Guys have this problem fairly often.

I use and recommend a procedure I even included in the STICKY I posted on LS1LT1.COM. It simply involves using a box end wrench to tighten the poly-lock AFTER the preload is set. This more tightly locks the allen head set screw against the stud and prevents any loosening.

The only caution is NOT to tighten the poly lock in a golrilla fashion or the poly-lock can split. I don't know of any torque spec - never seen one- I simply tighten them by feel. It's just something I came up with many years ago to address the loosening problem.

This is the kind of stuff you won't find in a FSM or Chilton's. It comes from experience and problem solving when screwing these suckas together. So I pass along that tid-bit of information every chance I get; I'm just sorry I missed giving it to you.

Jake

 

Would red or blue loctite help?
Could it be used where the allen stud contacts the polylock & also where the polylock contacts the stud?
I will be putting mine together shortly & would like to know.

 

blufc3s:
No Loctite, use a quality set of long arm allen wrenches.

 

I've NEVER had any come loose and all I do is turn it a TAD BIT more with the open end wrench after I get the allen screw tight. Like 1/16 of a turn. Just enough to put it in a bind.

 

This can be caused by the top of the rocker stud not being flat. Some grind off the high spots before installation. Most just do what you've done, tighten the "F" out of them. And yes there is a torque spec. for them.

 

To my knowledge there is no torque spec for the procedure I use and recommend. If there is why not post it?

Jake

 

That's what I ended up doing.

 

As far as I know we Grey beards never gave a name to the procedure; guess it takes the younger guys to take care of that little matter, LOL.

I just learned it's called the JAM TECHNIQUE.

Just using the set screw to keep everything tight often doesn't work, so the JAM TECHNIQUE was found to be the solution.

BTW, I mentioned "gorilla" because many years ago I DID crack one of the poly-locks by tightening it too much. Guess my testosterone level was up that day, LOL

1/16 turn does sound right to me.

Jake

 

Also keep in mind that a good stud such as ARP will have a harder, flatter surface and they will stay tight easier. If you go with bigger 7/16 ARP studs you have even more surface area for the allen to grab onto plus you get the benefit of a lot less stud flex.

 

I thought about upgrading to stud girdles, would eliminate flex and poly locks coming loose.

 

There's a bit of a disconnect here and I believe you're both right here. On the aftermarket roller rockers, there is no torque spec but on the factory LT4 engines the studs have a shoulder and you just torque them down....

 

The only thing I'm referring to is an "old timer's" method to help prevent the set screw or the poly lock from loosening when running poly-locks.

I'm aware or the "net build" torque spec requirement for LT4s, but that's not what I was addressing.

In other words, once the preload is set and the set screw is tightened as much as it can using an allen wrench (or whatever the set screw calls for), you then use a box end wrench to tighten the poly-lock (not the set screw) even more. It's THAT tightening which has no torque spec that I'm aware of.

Hope this clears things up.

Jake