Well. I thought I had my car running nicley with all the mods I wanted installed for a lil extra umph at the track..well after I had the verter installed, I ran it open Y for about 3 weeks or so and it ran like a champ...Pulling in 13.0s Unofficially.....well after I had my exhuast put back on it ran fine for about a week or 2 and then some odd **** happend...1st off, the cooler lines one th side of the tranny split at the flare, so it was leaking Tranny fluid a bit.(bit not catch this for about 1week or so..but it ran fine untill I took it to a buddys house some 45min - 1hr away and on the way there it bogged down when I went WOT to pass a semi.Like it lost power, spark, or Fuel Press...like it would just stick at 4k and not turn anymore RPMs or go any fast in speed either..so when i let off and droped the RPMs it ran fine for a sec then dropped the idle speed from 900-1000k....and idled rough as hell....well I had the lil leak fixed and it ran fine all day...I mean running the **** out of it to see if it would do it agian..well it never did so I headed home and guess what...as soon as i hit a lil straight away before my house it did it agian...Im just stumped at what it could be....Already had the Injectors checked and cleaned, Fuel pres. checked. fuel pump checked...Plugs and wires checked....only two things I can think of that could cause this are the Dear ol Opti...and the Fuel Filter...the Fule Filter is getting changed in the next few days though......also wondering if anyone had the same or similar problems...

 

A LOT of people have had this problem. It generally turns out to be the opti or pump. Sometimes it's the ICM. Sometimes it is the coil or coil wire.

A board search will get ya all kind of info on this problem. I ain't saying "Do a Search" just more info already there than I care to type.
IMO the best way is to have it scanned and not just for a code, but hooked up to a analyzer. Better than throwing parts at it and cheaper.

 

update.......Trusty Z is now running hella rich

 

Do you have any scanning software?. this would really come in handy for problems like this.

 

Nope..sure don't...but im droping it off at the local GM specialist tomorrow so they can throw it on their machine and fk with it.....im o fed up with tinkering with it so it runs 100% right at this point, I'd just rather pay someone else for the headache

 

Ok...well the MAP sensor was bad...they still have it and are doing a full diognosis on it to see what else is wrong with it if anything....my question now is this, has anyone else had to have their car dyno tuned or tuned at all after installing Full bolt-ons?... (i.e. Headers, intake, cat-back) im just curius cause they tech told me that it's still going to run a little rich since there isn't a cat..j/w

 

Whether it has or doesn't have a cat will not affect how rich it runs. The A/F ratio control is handled by the O2 sensors, and they are located before the cat(s). Any changes in inlet air flow due to the reduced back pressure from deleting the cat should be picked up by the MAF sensor.

 

anyone make 02 simms for pre-cat O2 Sensors?...can only seem to find them for the post-cat 02's

 

No. You need them for the car to run correctly. If your O2's are bad then just replace them.

 

well..got my car back today....it was the MAP sensor alone..cause it to run a il too rich and foul out some plugs.....hmmphh.....