like someone said prior to me.. 3.73 should be the lowest you go.. i know someone who went w/ 4.11 and has since gone back to the 3.70 gear.. As far as 60ft's every .1 off the 60 is somwhere like 1.5-1.75 tenth off your ET.. no specific measurement.. but thats the most important time other than the one at the end... YOu'll get there.. Put a gear in it take out some weight and have fun..

 

What's wrong with the 97's?

 

I think you meant LS-1s were under-rated 305+hp at the flywheel, more depending on the year and Z28, SS. Though no differences in the engine itself.
They typically dyno at the rear wheels in 300-320hp range which would indicate the LS-1 are putting out about the same horsepower as a C5.

 

The LS1s I ran against were pre 2000 autos, leading me to beleive that they would put out about 280-290rwhp(with lid and maybe free mods). Oh well..........

 

What cam are you going to be supporting???

 

I'm looking at the LT4 HOTcam. Cheap, effective.

John

 

thats funny, thats actually the exact kit i have sitting in my room waiting to install........ Dyno numbers on that cam when tuned properly are KILLER, especially with Long tubes......

 

So I hear!! Where did you order yours from??

John

 

I'd say your times are right on. The only thing you have that I don't is the stall. Best time in sig.

 

Well my mods are almost right on with yours and I have the times in the sig with a some wheel spin. 40% humidity and 1,000 ft above sea level. Just as a point of reference.

 

Im sorry, but I dont see where the mods you have done would keep up with an LS1 From what I have read you have no more than maybe 20-30 RWHP added. I think your times were right on for your mods. Maybe in cooler weather you may have seen a 13.4xx, but I think you would need to do more to see 12's.

I would add 1.6 RR's, ditch those 3.23's for some 3.73's, ditch that 2200 Torque converter (its about 300-400 above stock) and get somewhere closer to a 3000 stall. Also you need to get some tuning. When I used my LT1 Edit on the dyno after I have installed some mods, I cam ususually tune it for a good added 10-15 RWHP.

Here is a time slip for you to compare to. This may help you see where you need to be if you want to hit a high 12.9xx.

60 foot- 1.769
330 foot- 5.2562
1/8 ET- 8.2321
1/8 MPH- 82.31
1000 ET- 10.8117
1/4 ET- 12.9892
1/4 MPH- 103.82

Have any questions that I might be able to answer to help you, just ask.

 

I have seen probably close to 30-40 differsnt LS1's and LT1's on dyno's. Each running 10-20 times, so you could say I have seen alot of dyno sessions.

Most LT1's run anywhere from 230-250 RWHP, while LS1's run 280-320 RWHP. Depending on beind a A4 or M6.

I started at 230 RWHP and 252 RWTQ on a bone stock LT1 with 100,300 miles on it. Now I have 114,500 miles on it while being just a bolt on car but producing 290 RWHP and 347 RWTQ. Not to bad for a bolt-on car. Now if I could just get some cooler weather in San Antonio I think 12.7's wont be a problem. Probably will have to wait until fall to get some cooler air.

 

with a 104 trap u should be very low 13 if not 12s, so just try again on a different day, cant run the best every single time

 

dont worry about it , LS1's reel me in too, its normal!

LS1



those are pretty respectable times~!

 

Well it turns out that I compared the best times of the day, and I did in fact run a faster time than the LS1 did. Just didn't run faster than him on that run. He even got there earlier than I did, and ran in the cooler air in the morning. I suppose that makes me feel a little better. This brings me to another point, my traps were all over the place!! I hot lapped, trapped 102.7, then 103.7, then for the rest of the day it fluctuated between 100.0 and 101.5. I honestly don't see how 10* can make me lose 3.7mph

John