Troubleshooting Fans and Starting problems Guide
Troubleshooting Fans and Starting problems Guide
Some of the most numerous problems in the LT1 tech are the Fans and Starting problems.. So after having both i've decided to post all the possible problems I could think of on here for future reference. Add any info or correct anything I have in here. Add pictures or schematic links anyone .
Fans-
http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/fan_schematic_1995.jpg
2 Relays (check both)
2 Fuses (check both)
Both of these are located in the engine bays fuse box.
Sensor on the water pump- (Use a multimeter) unplugged sensor and they should come on...then ground the terminal and they should go off...so it's not getting ungrounded at the right temp if this is happening.
Bad connection at PCM OR ECU if a 93 or older model. Jump it at the ALDL to find out if all connections are good. If so then a sensor or computer is bad.
Starting problems-
****Engine not even trying to turn over, no cranking at all****
1.) Check Ignition fuse in the engine bay fuse box ( 1 fuse says abs/ ign on it too?)
2.) Starter and or solenoid completely dead (they are attached)
3.) Ground on the starter loose/broken. (check to make sure the smaller cable is grounded securly)
4.) Power cable to the starter loose/broken. (check to see if its connected, follow the red power cable to make sure its ok, test the power cable to see if you have low ohms)
5.) Clutch safety switch- (applies to manual cars only) Pull off the panel that is right above your pedal assembly. There is a white/tan switch that the clutch comes in contact with. The clutch pedal when disengaged rests up against this switch and pushes in the switch there by keeping the circuit open. If the switch is bad the circuit will never be closed so u cant start your car. Check with an ohm meter to see if its faulty.
6.) The resistor/chip in your key. Check the resistance. You'll have to find out what the ohms are suppose to be.. Im guessing call the dealer and give them your VIN to find out what the resitance should be on your key chip?
7.) Ignition switch underneath the steering column. You have to remove both dash panels underneath the steering wheel. Remove 2 bolts that hold up a brace thingy. Remove 3 bolts that hold your steering column to the firewall. Now you are able to reach that ignition switch. Try hot wiring your car. If it doesnt start and u know all of the above are ok then it has to be the below.
8.) Anti theft unit aka Body Control Module- This is located underneath your glove box. ****If you have a manual u can still push start the car****
There are 2 relays hooked up to it and the relays could be your problem.. Check both...
I forget which one it is but if you pull one of the relays u can bypass the security theft deterrent and clutch switch. Just stick a insulated wire in to of the connections. I believe they 1 pin is on the upper right corner and the other is in the lower left... If not just play with it till u find it. 12 volts only runs through the system on start up. u can pull the wire once the cars started.
Feel free to add any thing.
Fans-
http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/fan_schematic_1995.jpg
2 Relays (check both)
2 Fuses (check both)
Both of these are located in the engine bays fuse box.
Sensor on the water pump- (Use a multimeter) unplugged sensor and they should come on...then ground the terminal and they should go off...so it's not getting ungrounded at the right temp if this is happening.
Bad connection at PCM OR ECU if a 93 or older model. Jump it at the ALDL to find out if all connections are good. If so then a sensor or computer is bad.
Starting problems-
****Engine not even trying to turn over, no cranking at all****
1.) Check Ignition fuse in the engine bay fuse box ( 1 fuse says abs/ ign on it too?)
2.) Starter and or solenoid completely dead (they are attached)
3.) Ground on the starter loose/broken. (check to make sure the smaller cable is grounded securly)
4.) Power cable to the starter loose/broken. (check to see if its connected, follow the red power cable to make sure its ok, test the power cable to see if you have low ohms)
5.) Clutch safety switch- (applies to manual cars only) Pull off the panel that is right above your pedal assembly. There is a white/tan switch that the clutch comes in contact with. The clutch pedal when disengaged rests up against this switch and pushes in the switch there by keeping the circuit open. If the switch is bad the circuit will never be closed so u cant start your car. Check with an ohm meter to see if its faulty.
6.) The resistor/chip in your key. Check the resistance. You'll have to find out what the ohms are suppose to be.. Im guessing call the dealer and give them your VIN to find out what the resitance should be on your key chip?
7.) Ignition switch underneath the steering column. You have to remove both dash panels underneath the steering wheel. Remove 2 bolts that hold up a brace thingy. Remove 3 bolts that hold your steering column to the firewall. Now you are able to reach that ignition switch. Try hot wiring your car. If it doesnt start and u know all of the above are ok then it has to be the below.
8.) Anti theft unit aka Body Control Module- This is located underneath your glove box. ****If you have a manual u can still push start the car****
There are 2 relays hooked up to it and the relays could be your problem.. Check both...
I forget which one it is but if you pull one of the relays u can bypass the security theft deterrent and clutch switch. Just stick a insulated wire in to of the connections. I believe they 1 pin is on the upper right corner and the other is in the lower left... If not just play with it till u find it. 12 volts only runs through the system on start up. u can pull the wire once the cars started.
Feel free to add any thing.
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