No get the 93 vet bracket.and detent cable.

 

I'm just wondering why you suggest the vette bracket and detent?

I have one last question. Does the detent cable use the same bracket as the accelerator? If so I can pick one up for 4 bucks.

 

Yes the detent cable hooks into the same bracket.But your current bracket does not have extra slot for it.Hense why you need the 93 bracket.

 

I saw on tpi performance's site that you can also get non lockup converters for a 700r4 but you need their kit for 40 bucks that you install to make it accept the non lockup.

Here's the converters:
http://www.tpiperformance.com/70nonupcon.html

Here's the kit to for non-lockup:
http://www.tpiperformance.com/modkit7c.html

Does this mean now that you don't have to use the detent cable at all now if you do this?

Maybe it might be an easier way to deal with all this lockup stuff by just not using it at all..

Also does the 700r4 need some kind of kickdown? Just curious as I might be doing this swap as well..

Mike

 

hrmm I think I'm getting myself confused. The detent cable is the same as the tv cable for the 700r4 right? So then you would still need the bracket for shifting. But is there a way to properly adjust it on an lt1 camaro?

lol its too late here

But I still think the non lockup would be much easier than the lockup.. any opinions on that?

 

Lock-up or non-lock up , with an automatic valvebody you need to have the TV(detent) cable . I put an full manual valve body in mine .....then the TV cable goes bye bye

 

Go with the lock up,your gass miliage will be better,mine runs 300 rpms lower when it locks up.I also have a manual switch I can over ride the vacuum switch.I get cam surge in lower rpms when it locks up.

Detent cable and tv cable are the same.

If you drive the car on the street I would think the manual valve body would be a pain in the ****.

 

Opposite , the manual vb is fun as hell on the street

 

Yeah the lock up would make more sense on the street but the wiring still seems to be in question.

From what I'm gathering from this thread is that you need to interrupt the ground to the tranny through a brake switch and a vacuum switch to unlock the converter.

But what about the inside of the tranny? Does something need to be wired differently inside?

From what 12SCNDZ said there is something about the 3-4 switch that needs to be done but I'm realy not sure I get what he means..

ky94transam how did you wire up your tranny? Was there anything you had to do internally? Did you buy your tranny stock or was it modified?

I was looking at 700r4.com and came across their wiring harnesses which had an internal wiring harness as well as the external ones which make sense about the brake switch:

http://www.700r4.com/Tech/TCC/wiringindex.htm

But what I don't get is why you need that internal harness like that? Shouldn't you be able to just interrupt the ground normally and have the converter unlock without the internal harness?

What I'm asking is if the 700r4 is completely stock, how would it unlock? Didn't it unlock by pushing on the brakes? Or was it completely computer controlled?

So my question would be would getting that internal harness and one of their external ones along with a vacuum switch be enough to wire in the 700r4?

Also one last thing, what are the differences between the 700r4's over the years? I might be looking at an 89 700r4 and was wondering the differences between that and a 90-93 for instance or earlier than 89.

Thanks,

Mike

 

The TPI switch is external. Unfortunately, late 700's don't have the external 4th pressure tap that the switch needs to be installed in. For my non-origionally 700 equipped vehicles, I prefer to use earlier (Non-auxillary valvebody) transmissions. The catch is, there were only a few years that the non auxillary transmissions had the 30 spline input shafts. Early units had 27 spline shafts. You'll want to avoid them. The "Auxillary Valvebody" is a term used when an input accumulator was added to the transmission.
If you can get a visual of the valvebody, the pressure switches screw in the back of the valvebody. Some models even had a switch in the front. Most valvebodies have atleast a 4th switch, unless it's out of an S-10. The 4th switch is a round switch with a single wire running to it, in the rear, closest to the passenger side (near the 1-2 accumulater housing). Earlier model valvebodies will have provisions for 2 more switches...A 4-3 pulse, and a 3rd gear switch. These may have pipe plugs in them. Later valvebodies weren't even drilled for them. The one right next to the 4th switch is the 4-3 pulse. the one on the other end is the 3rd gear. Be aware that the 3rd and 4th switches work opposite of a 4-3 pulse. 3rd and 4th switches are "normally open/pressure closed"...The 4-3 is "normally closed/pressure open". If you mix them up, you'll have problems. Their operation can be checked with compressed air and an ohmeter. A normally open, 2 pole switch won't pass current between them until pressure is applied in the switch. This effectively means the transmission can't go into lockup until pressure is present at the switch. A normally closed 2 pole switch allows current to pass through it until there is pressure present. The 4-3 works this way, because you want it to come out of lockup when you make a forced 4-3 downshift (kickdown).
When setting up my transmissions, I use 2 multi-pole switches (this means that the switches have 2 plugs, instead of one, as a typical 4th switch has). Run your "A" wire straight to the soleniod. Run your "D" wire to one pole of the 4-3, a short wire from the other pole to one pole of the 4th switch, and then a wire from the other pole on the 4th switch to the solenoid.
Get a bracket and cable for a '93 Camaro. This was the last year for the 700. Yes, your throttle cable will go in it, too.
Don't use a non-lockup converter. Locking the converter also helps cool it. Lockup means that the converter stops slipping. Slip build heat! All converters slip until the go into lockup.
You already have the wires in the original 4L60E case connector to wire the trans. Just find the ground wire, and run it to the "D" terminal on the 700, and find you 12 volt positive wire, and run it to your "A" terminal. Check to make sure the wire for negative is broken when you step on the brake.

Frank

 

12SCNDZ,

Good Info.

So basically what I'm getting is that the reason you wire in the 4-3 pulse switch is so that when you manually kick down the tranny with the shifter from 4th to 3rd, the converter will unlock?

But what would happen if you have a later model 700r4 and you didn't have these provisions and shifted from 4th to 3rd? How would the converter know to unlock?

If you look at the internal wiring that is done at 700r4.com on their transmissions they don't make use out of the other switch ports only the 4th gear switch.

http://www.700r4.com/Tech/TCC/TCCinternalwiring.htm

So what really would happen if you shifted from 4th to 3rd manually? Would the converter still be locked?

How would a stock 700r4 work in a 93? I mean how does the lockup work? Is the computer controlling it?

Thanks,
Mike

 

computer no longer has any control over tranny.My 700r4 is a level 4...full race transmission,built by http://LT1DAVE.com/ I put in the manual switch just for in town driveing.Ran it off the vacuum switch.

 

Mine only locks in 4th. I have a toggle switch on the hump so I can manually lock/unlock the converter on the highway. If I do not unlock it, it will stall on deceleration. I also have a manual valve body as the 700 is not controlled electronically like the original tranny.

Make sure you get a Camaro tailshaft with the transmission as it probably will not come with one.

I never bothered to hook up my speedometer. It has been a couple of years now and although I put on about 20,000 miles per year I just make sure I keep pace with traffic.

 

Yeah, I gotta know..., if you already have an A4 F-body, what are the advantages of going from a 4L60E to a 700R4, since they are essentially the same mechanically? I could see a TH-400 or a 4L80E.

BTW, I'm running a 700R4 behind a '96 Z-28 engine in my Vega with the '96 TB. I used a Lokar setup for kickdown and TV cable, and a vacuum-operated lockup switch from Howell Engine Developments. Same thing is available from Painless. It was easer and cheaper than getting a 4L60E to work with an aftermarket harness.

Anyway, good luck
Dave

 

So the 700r4 has a kickdown cable too??

From what I thought it only needed a detent cable..

Mike