Any one happen to know the torque specs for heads and main studs(134-4001 and 134-5601) I seem to have mis placed my papers. THANKS

 

Shoebox has torque specs on his page.

 

aftermarket bolts or studs will use a different torque than stock, and i think that is what he is asking, try calling or e-mailing the compant

 

The search feature it your friend

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=17

Oh, and make sure to use arp thread sealand on the bottom threads, and molly lube on the top threads and washers.

DO NOT use permatex #2 like some may tell you. They will leak.

 

I just put on my ARP head bolt kit and it was tourque all of them to 22ft-lbs ..... then torque to dial... 80ft-lbs on the top ones and 67 ft-lbs on the bottom ones in a special order..

 

Thanks guy's

 

Odd. I called ARP the other day and the bolts had updated torque specs from what was included in my box. He said that with aluminum heads you need to do at least 2 stages of tightening arriving at 75lbs with the arp lube or sealant. I used 35 for the first stage as instructed. He also said you need to polish the threads by torquing at least 4x sequences to get accurate results.

 

ARP is retarded sometimes. They give everyone different damn specs. You get one spec in the box, a different one over the phone, and others post different numbers. Then everyone here argues and gets confused.

I replaced my studs with bolts because I had problems with the studs leaking water. The arp bolts I bought had instructions for 7/16" bolts with a much higher torque, something like 85 or 90 ft/lbs. I wonder how many people would have used the numbers that came in the box?

 

I've always just torqued my ARP's in three phases to reach 65ft lbs and never had a problem using Fel-Pro head gaskets. Used the same head bolts at least 4 to 5 times now...

 

I am thinking that it is more important to have even pressure between all bolts once torqued. (to a reasonable torque level that is.)