LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

torque NEW ARP head bolts mutiple times?

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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 06:55 PM
  #16  
spddmn's Avatar
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When you are ready to torque your heads down start in the middle of the head. Torque the middle two, then the two on one side, then the other side, and so on. Work back and forth when torqing them. Don't just torque one half then the other, work back and forth.
Old Feb 24, 2004 | 06:56 PM
  #17  
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Re: bringing back an oldie :D

Originally posted by scoobysnax83
Does anyone have a diagram of the torque pattern for the head? Thanks.....
Scoot down this page. Alex has it for you.
Old Feb 24, 2004 | 06:56 PM
  #18  
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Yes, its good to torque them in series. I think I did mine 25, 45, 65.
Old Feb 24, 2004 | 07:19 PM
  #19  
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man, and I revived the original one when "it" was an oldie
Old Feb 24, 2004 | 07:44 PM
  #20  
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I do three steps. Then I wait 24 hours and check them again. Just the way I was taught, not sure if it's "right".

Rich Krause
Old Feb 24, 2004 | 08:12 PM
  #21  
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Personally I think it might be a good idea to follow the instructions ARP provides with their product.






From there stand point I get what they're saying. Freshly rolled threads being used in a high-load situation just doesn't seem like an ideal situation. I know it sounds like alot of wrenching... but ARP seems to know what they're doing. If anything, I'd do the first 4 rounds without thread sealer... and ensure the same bolts are used in the same location (no point in taking them out, just get htem loose).

It's probably overkill, but if ARP reccomends it there's probably a reason (ensuring even thread-engaugment and pre-stressing the shaft of the bolt are probably the main reasons). I dunno, its your engine... depends how much time you have I guess.
Old Feb 24, 2004 | 11:17 PM
  #22  
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Well Steve, that's just it. If it's been proven anywhere that doing 4 or 5 torque rotations is absolutely necessary, I will do that. But I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere else on the forum, and I imagine there are a lot of guys running ARP head bolts. All I've ever seen is the typical "25-45-65" advice.

One last question... any comments about torqueing after the engine has heat-cycled the first few times?
Old Feb 24, 2004 | 11:21 PM
  #23  
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Originally posted by trax
Well Steve, that's just it. If it's been proven anywhere that doing 4 or 5 torque rotations is absolutely necessary, I will do that. But I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere else on the forum, and I imagine there are a lot of guys running ARP head bolts. All I've ever seen is the typical "25-45-65" advice.

One last question... any comments about torqueing after the engine has heat-cycled the first few times?
Modern gaskets don't require retorquing. At least I don't do it any more, though I used to.

Rich Krause
Old Feb 25, 2004 | 12:04 PM
  #24  
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I ended up torqueing (sp?) and re-torqueing per ARPs recommendations because my ARP bolts were brand new and I only wanted to do the head R&R once (i.e. "right the first time"). With that being said, I don't know of anyone else that's done this! Most just torque them down in the specified sequence and steps and are done with it.

FWIW, when I initially posed this question it was for my high mileage LT1. I got everything back together and got a nice strong 1000 miles or so out of it before spinning a bearing so I ended up having to pull the whole ENGINE anyway!

RobY
95Z28
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