LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Tips for dropping in a motor

Old Aug 28, 2010 | 05:11 PM
  #1  
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Tips for dropping in a motor

o I pulled my motor and had it rebuilt and have spent the last couple of months prepping it for the install. Flywheel and clutch are not connected, none of the accessories, etc.

Anyone got any tips or suggestions about what to do that makes things easier in the long run?

Such as: is it easier to connect the motor mounts to the block then drop it in, or connect it to the car and then try to line it up?

Hook up sensors, plugs and what not now or later?

Should I sit the headers lose in thier new positions and drop the motor in on top or wait to slide them in later?

Thanks in advance!
Old Aug 28, 2010 | 05:46 PM
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i think with headers i would put them in afterwards..

we had the engine mounts bolted to the block, and the chassis mounts bolted up, dropped engine onto the mounts..

replaced the plugs on the engine stand... the only thing that wasnt on the engine when it was dropped in was the ac compressor..

we did cut a small notch on the front radiator support because the balancer hub was hitting and we didnt feel like pulling the hub, and i had a cutoff wheel handy.. it was about 6inches wide and 1/2" deep..

we even left the hood on the car... i would suggest one of those engine level things on the hoist when you go to drop it in, think that would make it alot easier, as we had to pull the engine back out 1 time to get enough angle on it to get it in, then had to readjust with it just sitting in the engine compartment to get it back somewhat level to bolt up to the trans and get it on the engine mounts...
probably would be alot easier with the hood off..
Old Aug 28, 2010 | 06:36 PM
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when my dad and I dropped mine in 2x now we left the mounts on the block. we had to tilt the motor, front up-bottom down, a lot to get it to fit in there and slowly move it back in, drop it, move back, drop it more, then slowly level it out during the process.

Told him we should have just dropped it outta the bottom but he didn't have all the necessary stuff and didn't want to make it with duck tape
Old Aug 29, 2010 | 07:37 PM
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Drop the k member put the whole engine together on the k member then lower the car down over the engine. Put the trans on and same with the headers and all accessories on. U can rent a engine host to raise the car up.
Old Aug 29, 2010 | 11:54 PM
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I just did a motor swap today. I pulled the motor and trans from my camaro and installed it into my TA in about 5hrs. Everything came right out and in the top. Had to keep a floor jack on the back of the trans with the car on stands and the motor and trans went out at almost a 90 degree angle with the hood off. It was not too hard at all, I was actually shocked by the way everything went so smooth. We took more time running around looking for energy suspension motor mounts than pulling the motor.
Old Aug 30, 2010 | 10:39 PM
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I installed my plugs after I installed the engine and mounted the headers. That way you don't crack a plug by smacking them during the header installation.
Old Aug 30, 2010 | 11:29 PM
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I will prol try to pull the motor out the bottom next time- I have gone out the top every other time and can get it done in about 2 hrs now. But coming out the bottom would probably mean taking less things off which would be nice.

I have always left the motor mounts on the block and the chassis mounts on the k-member-

Like previous poster stated leave your plugs out so you don't snap one off.

I keep an old oil filter to thread on quick so I don't have to worry about denting up a new one and also protecting the filter threads.

You will learn little tricks and such the more you do it as well.

Last edited by Procharged94Lt1; Aug 30, 2010 at 11:35 PM.
Old Sep 2, 2010 | 02:38 PM
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dropping in the motor

A co-worker gave me a GM Tech magazine earlier this year showing the procedure for dropping the engine, tranny, and front end out the bottom. It looks to be easier than going out the top of the engine bay, especially at the angles the engine has to be at to clear and parts to remove. Every other engine I've pulled in my life was out the top and I've learned it's "work smarter not harder" to "git'r'done". Plus I"ll be able to beef up my front end,etc. at the same time. I've found several vehicle lifts for $1500 - $2000 to lift the car. You'll need patience to get it back in from the top, but in the future you might consider the alternative. Just my 2 cents worth.
Old Sep 2, 2010 | 02:44 PM
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http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 07:50 AM
  #10  
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Drop wrenches

That is one informative post @ "michiganspeed". I'm wondering what are "drop wrenches" referred to in the tool list? I'm gathering the tools to do this procedure but I'm stumped with that set of tools' name. I appreciate the info. tremendously.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 09:11 AM
  #11  
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Wouldn't it be easier just to buy the Happy Hooker Lift Plate from TPIS and remove the engine that way..
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Jlo
Wouldn't it be easier just to buy the Happy Hooker Lift Plate from TPIS and remove the engine that way..
Try it both ways then come back.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 12:18 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 1994BmtZ28
That is one informative post @ "michiganspeed". I'm wondering what are "drop wrenches" referred to in the tool list? I'm gathering the tools to do this procedure but I'm stumped with that set of tools' name. I appreciate the info. tremendously.
He means standard wrenches. Most good wrenches are "drop" forged.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 01:42 PM
  #14  
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Cool Drop wrenches

OK, that's good to know. I believe I'm armed with enough knowledge to try this for my first time. Thanks for the enlightenment.
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