What all would I need to change the factory timing chain and gears to something more heavy duty? Like say a double roller?

I plan on spraying a 100 shot on this within a year, and want to do all the little stuff first.

Long term plans are building a low comp 383, with procharger ...

So, what kind of timing set up would I need to hold at least a 550RWHP motor, more than likely over 600RWHP?

I know I will have to switch to an electric water pump, and probly a new timing cover, but what else is involved in it?

 

Unless you're swapping in a cam with heavier spring loads, the timing chain could care less that you are spraying a 100-shot. Many of us have sprayed 150HP with the stock chain. When you go to a bigger cam, higher RPM, stiffer springs (e.g. - solid roller), its time to invest in an upgraded timing set.

A lot of us have had good luck with the LT4 Extreme Duty set. I've seen that set run on a solid roller 383 making 1,125HP on 20+ # of boost.

 

Well, I will still be running a hydraulic roller so ...

I just figured it would be worthwhile to put a heavy duty timing set in. I didnt realize the stocker could hold that kind of power.

 

Well, It's not about the power you're making as stated above.

You've got to look at what wears on a timing chain.
Things to consider would be,

How agressive are the cam lobes?

How much spring pressure are you running?

How many RPM's are you spinning?

How often will you be "up" in the RPM range?

I personally would not trust the stock
chain on anything I plan on beating on.

It is composed of plates rivited together,
and is born loose, only becoming looser over time.

I chose to run a Pro Gear single roller that required
no clearancing to the timing cover, in combonation
with a CSR electric water pump.

The stock chain is a bad joke when laid next to the
pro gear roller.

 

Yea ... Well when I build it, im shooting for a 383, low compression, and around 12psi, intercooled boost, and will likely spray a small shot (100) on top of that for track days. Something similar to Rich's car hopefully

To awnser some questions though,

It will remain hydraulic roller, relatively fast ramp, long duration, not real high lift though. Nothing too crazy though. I want it to be as "reliable", although thats kind of a relative term when it will be 600+ HP.

I am shooting for peak power around 5800 - 6000RPM, and to not have to spin it any higher than say 6400ish?

Im not sure what kind of spring pressures I would need. I do know it will not be a real high lift cam, as I wont need the lift as much with it being blown. I may need some pretty decent springs though if its real fast ramped. I'm not entirely sold on the concept of needing double springs though. I think some of the Bee Hive designs are pretty reasonable. Im not real sure what springs/spring rates I will need. I am building it as a street car. And will remain hydraulic roller.

 

Also, it will be revved "up there" frequently, but for the most part will only be 1/4 mile or less runs. I highly doubt I will ever take it on one of the road courses by my house to play around, but it is possible, just not likely?

 

i believe Cloyes makes a HD timing chain for the LT1 (maybe the same as the LT4 HD) and i know it works. My car has over .630 lift and 550 lbs on the seat and that timing chain works fine.

 

not to steal this thread, but do you have to change the timing set if your doing a hot cam kit? I'm looking into it, but just thought i'd throw it out there?

 

You don't need a new timing cover. You MIGHT need to grind it a bit if going to a Cloyes (thats what I did) but you can reuse your timing cover.

 

Nite Hawk,

From what I have seen, No, you wouldnt have too. However, timing chains are kind of a wear item. They do stretch in time. And I know if I was camming my car, it would surely be seeing a new chain. At least the LT4 HD one. If not the Cloyes set, or the Lunati maybe?

The only reason I wanted to upgrade for my car is that it will have stronger than stock springs ( Bee Hives , 918's ) and will be getting a sudden surge of power when I'm spraying it. I thought the sudden jolt could put extra stress on it and possibly damage it, but apparently, the stocker can handle some decent power. I still will be upgrading it though when I rebuild the engine

How many miles are on your car? Mine only has 17K, I was more concerned with the surge of power from n20. If yours isnt high mileage, it wouldnt be as big of an issue.

 

hehe...miles, I have 110k on it now...I have the chain set in my budget, but wanted to see if i could just get away with a stock replacement. I don't plan on going to the Drag strip maybe once before my mods begin next month and Once or twice afterwards. I live at the base of the mountains and that's where i do my fun. I have the Hotcam kit on order now, and don't really plan to go much more than that. Not till i can get to Germany. then my goal is to drop mucho money on the motor to take me near 200mph... hehe lofty goal i know. Just wondering that is all, like i said it's in my budget plan already, so i should just leave it in there...

 

So if I understand correctly the sudden boost from the nitrous won't put any additional strain on the timing chain? I was thinking of spraying at the end of the summer or next year, and so I was shopping around for a new timing set but if you say I can continue to run the stock one then I guess I just won't worry about it?

I am running the 230/236 .544/.556 cam wit the more agressive steeper XE lobes and CM612 springs (to be honest I don't know the spring pressure) and my car revs to 6400 at the track. Should I go ahead and order a better timing set?

btw HardcoreRM125 thanks for starting this thread. I was wondering about this.

 

I would recommend the cloyes double roller timing chain since it is only 80 and a lt4 is like 250.

nite hawk: You will not get your car to 200mph. F-body vehicles start to lose control at about 170ish. At that speed you would go airborne. The cars aerodynamics do not permit this. HUGE amounts of money would have to be spent to get the cars body panels modified along with suspension and a awesome set of BRAKES(you would need to stop).

 

hmm... I would think with lowering the car (using some really stiff springs and shocks and other suspension work), a front spoiler (lip) and even the the stock rear spoiler you would be safe to 185 or so. Completely bone stock breaking 160 isn't very difficult down a long straightaway, such as on road america.

 

It's a dream of mine to go that fast in this car...HP wise i need at least 600WHP. Aerodynamics are a different story. I have ideas in my head on how to achieve it. Under body pan, rear diffuser to help. I have suspension done already. Brakes, hmmm...i'd have to look into which ones to do...I know it probably will never happen, but it doesn't hurt to dream...