how far can i drive safely with it. i have had it on for a few years and no major problems but it doesnt seem to cool like the stock pump. but i plan on taking my car to cruising the coast in october and its about a 3hr drive so i was wondering

 

I drove my car to Texas from Georgia, drove it in Texas heat for 3 month and then back to Georgia with the mods in my sig. I had the water pump on the car for a couple years before I went. I have been back in Ga. for 2 years now and still no problem. I would not hesitate to drive it anywhere. The miles on my car are not exactly "easy" miles either.

 

do ya mind if i pm ya n ask ya something?

 

I go all over with mine, but it cools very well. I also have a spare in the trunk since, if it does fail, you aren't going to find one locally.

 

Yeah been thinking bout that too lol. Do u use the hd or standard?

 

Also are ya'll using the stock radiator or aftermarket?

 

Don't mind at all.

 

Stock radiator, stock fans. No condenser because I deleted the AC. But I do have a huge stacked plate transmission cooler attached to the radiator.

 

They do tend to run slightly warmer at cruise because at those engine speeds the mechanical would have been moving more water, they do get the job done though. 3 hours isn't any worse than 1 hour.

 

Ok thanks for the info fellas. Since getting the Ac fixed mine is getting pretty warm but I guess my problem must be somewhere else. I'm still working kinks out of the car. It may be lean or something causing it to do it. Sitting still ain't bad its driving when it gets really warm

 

I've been running mine for the last 6 years and 40,000 miles and it has run cooler than the stock pump in all situations. One of the best mods I have done.

 

You only blindly believe it is cooler all the time unless you changed the thermostat or something at the same time. It is a tiny minority of folks who actually comprehend things for how they actually work, those who do understand the electrics free up HP by doing LESS WORK. Most buy into the "they flow more" and no amount of data or observation will influence them. THE WORLD IS FLAT

Even in 40degree weather I have seen a 30gpm pump cause engine temps to be 4-5 degrees warmer at 75mph than 30mph, this is as viewed through the pcm. Certainly not a problem but proof they do not cool better. I can post links of other people capable of basic observation seeing the same thing.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/15253053-post28.html
http://ls1tech.com/forums/15252982-post26.html
Those are just from this week.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/8817193-post21.html
I think it was Injuneer who sent me to SAE's site years ago and I downloaded a document with a graph posted here.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/6566221-post63.html
Notice that is 66gpm even against the thermostat while if you bother to read the electric manufacturer's data they are freeflow. A few of us have counted WP drive teeth and found that 6000 pump rpm is about 4800 engine rpm.

People don't like how I harp on this but I am making headway so it is worth it.

 

I run a 160 stat and adjusted the fans kick on and off times accordingly and my pump keeps it around 180-195 all the time.

 

I run a Mez HD pump on a 97ss 383 FI app. I did run a lower 43gpm Mez pump with less cooling ability. I converted to Evans NPG media and my own thermostat replcement. It is all open and seals the bypass port better than the stock thermostat. I also played with the reverse cooling flow by lowering the coolant flow (plug oriface). This helps the engine run cooler with no thermostat. Since I moved the Rad forward, I also found by trial and error that an open flow area in front of the Rad is very important.

The lower coolant temps required me to adjust the PCM flash program.
B.