LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Those With Double Roller Timing Chains Inside Please..

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Old Dec 26, 2003 | 08:53 PM
  #16  
Serene's Avatar
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I personally would weld it shut, but not everyone may have access to a tig welder. Or you could pay a shop a couple bucks to weld it shut. No sealant or anything to leak.

But of course then its permanent and youd have to get a new timing cover if you went back to stock.
Old Dec 26, 2003 | 09:13 PM
  #17  
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Originally posted by funina91ss
No matter what chain you use check to make sure it clears You will be so mad if you have to take it all back apart.

Getting the wp bearing out can be tricky with the intake still on. I used a pry bar on my buddies car.

SS are you sure you don't have to plug the whole in the front cover if you remove the wp bearing drive
No im sorry I misunderstood what was in discussion...

The hole that is left by the shaft INSIDE the timing cover DOES NOT have to be plugged...

The hole that is left by the waterpump shaft ON the timing cover DOES have to be plugged.... What I did is I measured the size of the hole with a dial caliper and then I went to napa and got the closet sized freeze plug that they had that would FIT IN the hole.. Then I just sealed it all up FORNT & BACK with some copper sealant... That thing has NEVER leaked since AND the best part is NO MORE WATER PUMP SEALS

BTW all that crap about the two washers and cutting and this that and the other thing is a waste of time IMO. Might as well do what is the least amout of work and WORKS JUST AS GOOD IF NOT BETTER
Old Dec 26, 2003 | 11:25 PM
  #18  
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From: WhiteSalmon, Wa. USA
Thumbs up Brass freeze plug

I used a brass freeze plug to seal the hole in my timing cover. I don't recall the size, I took my cover to the parts store found the right size freeze plug and crammed it in there.

Pretty technical, huh?!

Ken
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 11:29 AM
  #19  
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Originally posted by 96 WS6
I would not trust JB weld through heat... the stuff is garbage.
JB-Weld is not junk LOL

Sure it can be removed by heat, but it will take alot more than the kind of heat the front cover will see to break it down.

BMW approves JB-weld for repair on coolant cooling systems and I've seen it used to repair cracks and errosion on cylinder heads and blocks before.
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 02:36 PM
  #20  
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Cool, thanks for the replies. I'll probably take the cover and get a freeze plug for it, and seal it in. What is the easiest way to remove the assembly from the block?? I have the intake off, so can I just pry it out from the back once the timing cover is off, and what did you guys use to do so??
Thanks for all the help!
Brandon
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 07:43 PM
  #21  
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From: Christiansburg, VA
Originally posted by Brandon 95 Z28
Cool, thanks for the replies. I'll probably take the cover and get a freeze plug for it, and seal it in. What is the easiest way to remove the assembly from the block?? I have the intake off, so can I just pry it out from the back once the timing cover is off, and what did you guys use to do so??
Thanks for all the help!
Brandon
i took a small punch and hammered it out from the back side.
very easy only took 2 minute or less.

jesse
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 08:02 PM
  #22  
96 WS6's Avatar
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From: Bay Area, CA, USA
Originally posted by Brandon 95 Z28
Cool, thanks for the replies. I'll probably take the cover and get a freeze plug for it, and seal it in. What is the easiest way to remove the assembly from the block?? I have the intake off, so can I just pry it out from the back once the timing cover is off, and what did you guys use to do so??
Thanks for all the help!
Brandon
I mentioned it earlier in the post. You don't even need a punch, just tap it a couple times with a hammer and it will come out easy. Remember it is all oiled up from being in the block so it will slide right out.
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 08:54 PM
  #23  
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Hammer + socket will take it out easy in one hit
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