Hey,

I am installing a double roller chain with my cam swap in the next week, and was wondering if i have to pull the water pump drive out completely?? I am already running a CSI pump, and thought I read that the water pump drive had to be revmoved to run this chain, but then wouldnt the timing cover have a hole that needed to be plugged? I might just be confused, and any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Brandon

 

yes you have to remove the water pump drive gear, and plug up the hole in the timing cover

jesse

 

also plan on clearancing the timing cover with a dremel/grinder to make it fit without rubbing, i grinded on mine for over an hour.

jesse

 

What do you use to plug the hole?? How difficult is it to remove the water pump drive assembly??
Thanks for the replies,
Brandon

 

If you have the intake manifold off, you can just tap the water pump drive out from the back. And you do have to plug the cover. There is a csi install on some website that shows how to do it.

 

I use a Cloyes double roller timing chain and I did not have to grind the the inside of the timing cover to clearance it. To plug the hole in the front cover I used a dollar coin and JB-welded it there. Its a near perfect fit

 

Wow, the hole left in the timing cover is large enough for a dollar coin?? Kind of an expensive fix , lol. Any pics??
Thanks,
Brandon

 

The hole that is left by the waterpump shaft DOES NOT have to be plugged...

Also there is NO GRINDING required to install the cloyes 9-3145 double roller on the LT1. I was able to put my cover on with no gasket and it didn't rub, then I figure having the gasket on there the cover sticks out even farther so there is no need to grind on the cover

 

I would not trust JB weld through heat... the stuff is garbage. I used two washers, one on the inside of the cover and one on the outside with a bolt, nut, and lock washer. I used my dremel to shave the outer washer's edges down to fit the hole perfectly. I used ultra copper everywhere, threads, washer, and then just clean up the excess. It has been working perfectly and I'm sure it will continue to work perfectly.

 

the hole that is left in the block DOENST have to be plugged, but the discussion is about how to plug the hole in the timing cover.


every motor is different, some need to be clearanced, and some dont.

 

No matter what chain you use check to make sure it clears You will be so mad if you have to take it all back apart.

Getting the wp bearing out can be tricky with the intake still on. I used a pry bar on my buddies car.

SS are you sure you don't have to plug the whole in the front cover if you remove the wp bearing drive

 

You dont have to plug the hole left by the bearings.

I guess you dont have to plug the hole in the timing cover either if you like big oil leaks

Oh, I would check to make sure the chain doesnt hit the cover, stupid not to.

 

Yeah, I figured i wouldnt have to plug the hole in the block, just the on in the timing cover. I am just looking for ideas on what is easy and effective to plug the hole with. Yeah, I will be sure to use a trial fit of the timing cover to see whether or not it needs grinding before reassembling the whole thing.
Thanks for the replies so far,
Brandon

 

take the timing cover in a bolt store and find 2 washers, 1 bolt, 1 nut,
assemble it like this:
bolt--->washer--->timing cover--->washer--->nut.
i used a dremel tool to cut the excess bolt length.
i also used some copper rtv to seal it up. be neat with it.

jesse

 

JB Weld + a quarter has been holding for over 3 yrs on my car...

Cody