LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

TB Bypass, to do or not to do?

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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 07:57 PM
  #31  
white97z/28's Avatar
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I was also wondering whether to cap off the the ports where the hoses connect to or just leave em open?
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 08:00 PM
  #32  
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After I threw my cam in, I found out that the two ends didn't meet up, so I just bypassed it.
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 08:17 PM
  #33  
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Originally posted by Spllouder
Heres info i found on the net for the bypass is so. easy here, http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6647/ta93/tbody.htm


Also is there a list of all the free mods and cheap mods for the lt1 some where ?

You don't even need that tube the picture shows. All you have to do is route the long tube to the metal tube going to the back of the engine at the exit side of the throttle body. Cost $0.00. Best 6 rwhp you can get! (from the heat soaked dyno I've seen anyway)
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 08:55 PM
  #34  
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Originally posted by FastWhiteTA
Well I did the TB bypass today. First sunny day since I started this thread. Anyway, all I did was reroute the hose that goes into the right side of the throttle body to the metal tube that the exit hose of the coolant goes into. Is it absolutely necessary to plug up the old holes on the TB? Or is it ok to leave them open since it's now just an open port between two holes?
Won't hurt a thing to leave the hoels open. You can use vacuume caps (3/8") to make them pretty though.
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 09:04 PM
  #35  
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Originally posted by EbeZ28
Won't hurt a thing to leave the hoels open. You can use vacuume caps (3/8") to make them pretty though.

Ok thanks bro.
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 09:14 PM
  #36  
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i think the idea of plugging them is just so that if you ever had to "unbypass" it persay, there wouldn't be any crap in there to get in your coolant
someone correct me if i'm wrong
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 09:45 PM
  #37  
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Originally posted by FastWhiteTA
You don't even need that tube the picture shows. All you have to do is route the long tube to the metal tube going to the back of the engine at the exit side of the throttle body. Cost $0.00. Best 6 rwhp you can get! (from the heat soaked dyno I've seen anyway)
If you are referring to the steam pipe that goes to the back of the heads then you need to route that a differenet way. That is not a normal coolant line. It relieves pressure inside of the heads from the build up of heat. It saves your head gaskets and prevents failure. Just join the two lines, pay the $2 at most and do it the right way.
Old Jan 18, 2004 | 06:41 AM
  #38  
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Originally posted by scoobysnax83
If you are referring to the steam pipe that goes to the back of the heads then you need to route that a differenet way. That is not a normal coolant line. It relieves pressure inside of the heads from the build up of heat. It saves your head gaskets and prevents failure. Just join the two lines, pay the $2 at most and do it the right way.
This is the correct way to bypass a 93-4:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6647/ta93/tbody.htm

This is the correct way to do 95-7:
http://shbox.com/1/tb_bypass.jpg

So while the above quoted info is true for a 93-4, [couple the hoses,etc] FastWhiteTA has a 95-7, so he did do it correctly..

The factory rerouted the hose configuration for 95, [I did a lot of research on it, as I have also done the 'upgrade' to 95-7 configuration]
Old Jan 20, 2004 | 05:05 AM
  #39  
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Originally posted by Mtrhds94Z
This is the correct way to bypass a 93-4:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6647/ta93/tbody.htm

This is the correct way to do 95-7:
http://shbox.com/1/tb_bypass.jpg

So while the above quoted info is true for a 93-4, [couple the hoses,etc] FastWhiteTA has a 95-7, so he did do it correctly..

The factory rerouted the hose configuration for 95, [I did a lot of research on it, as I have also done the 'upgrade' to 95-7 configuration]
touché
Old Jan 20, 2004 | 07:19 AM
  #40  
AxeGrinder30thZ's Avatar
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Originally posted by Mtrhds94Z
This is the correct way to bypass a 93-4:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6647/ta93/tbody.htm

This is the correct way to do 95-7:
http://shbox.com/1/tb_bypass.jpg

So while the above quoted info is true for a 93-4, [couple the hoses,etc] FastWhiteTA has a 95-7, so he did do it correctly..

The factory rerouted the hose configuration for 95, [I did a lot of research on it, as I have also done the 'upgrade' to 95-7 configuration]
I have a 97 Z28. Can't I still do the TB bypass just like the 93-94 way?
Old Jan 20, 2004 | 08:13 AM
  #41  
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Originally posted by AxeGrinder30thZ
I have a 97 Z28. Can't I still do the TB bypass just like the 93-94 way?
No (or maybe why would you want to?), because you have the 95-97 hose configuration. It's even easier the 95-97 way.
Old Jan 20, 2004 | 09:48 AM
  #42  
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what's the length and diameter of the hardline needed for th e94 bypass?
Old Jan 20, 2004 | 11:35 AM
  #43  
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Originally posted by AxeGrinder30thZ
I have a 97 Z28. Can't I still do the TB bypass just like the 93-94 way?
You COULD.. [it will still work]
But the 95-7 config allows you to not need the connector, and also to remove one hose[the small elbow from the steam opipe to the TB..
So I wouldn't, and it is easier to do the later method..
Old Jan 20, 2004 | 11:37 AM
  #44  
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From: Point Pleasant, NJ... USA
Originally posted by 19formula94
what's the length and diameter of the hardline needed for th e94 bypass?
A 3/8" OD[for 3/8" ID hose] brass hose commector/barb works well.. and 2 worm clamps sized for the hose OD
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