TB Bypass, to do or not to do?
Originally posted by Spllouder
Heres info i found on the net for the bypass is so. easy here, http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6647/ta93/tbody.htm
Also is there a list of all the free mods and cheap mods for the lt1 some where ?
Heres info i found on the net for the bypass is so. easy here, http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6647/ta93/tbody.htm
Also is there a list of all the free mods and cheap mods for the lt1 some where ?
You don't even need that tube the picture shows. All you have to do is route the long tube to the metal tube going to the back of the engine at the exit side of the throttle body. Cost $0.00. Best 6 rwhp you can get! (from the heat soaked dyno I've seen anyway)
Originally posted by FastWhiteTA
Well I did the TB bypass today. First sunny day since I started this thread. Anyway, all I did was reroute the hose that goes into the right side of the throttle body to the metal tube that the exit hose of the coolant goes into. Is it absolutely necessary to plug up the old holes on the TB? Or is it ok to leave them open since it's now just an open port between two holes?
Well I did the TB bypass today. First sunny day since I started this thread. Anyway, all I did was reroute the hose that goes into the right side of the throttle body to the metal tube that the exit hose of the coolant goes into. Is it absolutely necessary to plug up the old holes on the TB? Or is it ok to leave them open since it's now just an open port between two holes?
Originally posted by FastWhiteTA
You don't even need that tube the picture shows. All you have to do is route the long tube to the metal tube going to the back of the engine at the exit side of the throttle body. Cost $0.00. Best 6 rwhp you can get! (from the heat soaked dyno I've seen anyway)
You don't even need that tube the picture shows. All you have to do is route the long tube to the metal tube going to the back of the engine at the exit side of the throttle body. Cost $0.00. Best 6 rwhp you can get! (from the heat soaked dyno I've seen anyway)
Originally posted by scoobysnax83
If you are referring to the steam pipe that goes to the back of the heads then you need to route that a differenet way. That is not a normal coolant line. It relieves pressure inside of the heads from the build up of heat. It saves your head gaskets and prevents failure. Just join the two lines, pay the $2 at most and do it the right way.
If you are referring to the steam pipe that goes to the back of the heads then you need to route that a differenet way. That is not a normal coolant line. It relieves pressure inside of the heads from the build up of heat. It saves your head gaskets and prevents failure. Just join the two lines, pay the $2 at most and do it the right way.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6647/ta93/tbody.htm
This is the correct way to do 95-7:
http://shbox.com/1/tb_bypass.jpg
So while the above quoted info is true for a 93-4, [couple the hoses,etc] FastWhiteTA has a 95-7, so he did do it correctly..
The factory rerouted the hose configuration for 95, [I did a lot of research on it, as I have also done the 'upgrade' to 95-7 configuration]
Originally posted by Mtrhds94Z
This is the correct way to bypass a 93-4:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6647/ta93/tbody.htm
This is the correct way to do 95-7:
http://shbox.com/1/tb_bypass.jpg
So while the above quoted info is true for a 93-4, [couple the hoses,etc] FastWhiteTA has a 95-7, so he did do it correctly..
The factory rerouted the hose configuration for 95, [I did a lot of research on it, as I have also done the 'upgrade' to 95-7 configuration]
This is the correct way to bypass a 93-4:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6647/ta93/tbody.htm
This is the correct way to do 95-7:
http://shbox.com/1/tb_bypass.jpg
So while the above quoted info is true for a 93-4, [couple the hoses,etc] FastWhiteTA has a 95-7, so he did do it correctly..
The factory rerouted the hose configuration for 95, [I did a lot of research on it, as I have also done the 'upgrade' to 95-7 configuration]
Originally posted by Mtrhds94Z
This is the correct way to bypass a 93-4:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6647/ta93/tbody.htm
This is the correct way to do 95-7:
http://shbox.com/1/tb_bypass.jpg
So while the above quoted info is true for a 93-4, [couple the hoses,etc] FastWhiteTA has a 95-7, so he did do it correctly..
The factory rerouted the hose configuration for 95, [I did a lot of research on it, as I have also done the 'upgrade' to 95-7 configuration]
This is the correct way to bypass a 93-4:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6647/ta93/tbody.htm
This is the correct way to do 95-7:
http://shbox.com/1/tb_bypass.jpg
So while the above quoted info is true for a 93-4, [couple the hoses,etc] FastWhiteTA has a 95-7, so he did do it correctly..
The factory rerouted the hose configuration for 95, [I did a lot of research on it, as I have also done the 'upgrade' to 95-7 configuration]
Originally posted by AxeGrinder30thZ
I have a 97 Z28. Can't I still do the TB bypass just like the 93-94 way?
I have a 97 Z28. Can't I still do the TB bypass just like the 93-94 way?
Originally posted by AxeGrinder30thZ
I have a 97 Z28. Can't I still do the TB bypass just like the 93-94 way?
I have a 97 Z28. Can't I still do the TB bypass just like the 93-94 way?
But the 95-7 config allows you to not need the connector, and also to remove one hose[the small elbow from the steam opipe to the TB..
So I wouldn't, and it is easier to do the later method..
Originally posted by 19formula94
what's the length and diameter of the hardline needed for th e94 bypass?
what's the length and diameter of the hardline needed for th e94 bypass?
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