That sucks. How much hotter is it down there from when you ran your 118mph traps before the LE heads? How much does your car weigh anyway?

 

It was actually colder the night after the heads. I think that the trap speed wasn't reading right the time I went 118 before the heads, I ran twice in the left lane and went 115.9 both runs, then switched to the right lane and went 117, 118, 117 and the 1/8th trap stayed the same. But then again this was at Gainesville and they run the NHRA gatornationals there so I don't see their timing equipment being off. After the heads I gained 1mph in the 1/8th though. The only time I weighted the car it was 3330 lbs, since then I added 3" true duals run out the back, C5 brakes up front, SFC connectors, and 17x9 up front 17x11's out back compared to the light 10 spoke style 16" wheels, but I also took out the back seats, so if I had to guess its probably around 3375-3400 lbs without me in it now.

 

Don't get me wrong, the cam is nice if its above 2-2200rpms. Pulls nice from there up. Since its an auto, the idle is going to be rough compared to a 6-spd free wheeling at idle. But anything with the convertor locked cruising and the rpms drop below 2k then you feel the cam surge. I've turned the tranny shift tables to not lock until 42mph and any throttle unlocks it unless above 48mph. So daily driving in DFW traffic keeps it unlocked a lot and there goes the mpg.
As far as the power, at 6200 it made in the neighborhood of 340rwhp, don't want to spin it any higher, but comparing the 383 numbers to the 350, it going to take an additional 4-500rpm to make the peak numbers this cam is capable of, something the stock bottom end is not going to see.
I've checked for any vac leaks in the runners as mentioned before.
Compression check yeilds 180-185 in each cylinder.
I've checked the advance on the cam, its installed dot to dot.
I've completely zeroed out the knock retard tables so no knock could occur, it does get a few degrees at WOT otherwise..timing is not all that high, around 34 degrees, any more causes more knock and its getting plenty of fuel as I have a dual wb to tune with and can make it 10.5 AFR and it still knocks.
Add more timing and it knocks more so fairly certain its real, although I'll use some race fuel to make sure when time permits in the coming weeks.
No other odd noises after I fixed the wp gear that was incorrectly left in there.
Also readjusted rocker lash.
This is also ran thru dual cats and straight thru muffs, don't remember if you had cats or not on the vette.
Alot may have to do with the gearing etc and I wouldn't say the tranny is where I want it to be either as far as the way it feels.
But it sure is nice to mash the pedal at about a 30mph punch and lay a good scratch with the 315's out back so its not a dog by any means. I'm not disappointed at all in that regard, just wish it was a little nicer below the 2k rpms for the daily driving aspect.

 

A combo is a combo and gearing certainly is part of it and no doubt having a six speed with 4:10 gears makes a huge difference. I’d still follow the SS Impala crowds advice as they are heavy automatics with 3.08 gears and probably have the drivability/power issue pretty much under control.

On a dyno sheet sitting in front of me were the 211/219 cam made 362.2/361.9 it broke 350 rwhp around 5250 and kept the power above that until around 6250. It made peak power in the 6000 rpm range but produced the best average power when shifted about 6400-6500 rpm as the power curve of the cam is quite good. I can only speak for myself, but 6200 rpm is probably more than likely considered very conservative in the general sense of most people on this list as even a milder cam such as a 211/219 wants to be revved higher. Realize the turbo cars you’re used to are grunters likening to be shifted around 5000 rpm, but small block Chevy’s are and always will be revvers. Every time I take mine up to 7200 rpm, got a big grin on my face as that’s music to my ears. Yeh Ha, play that funky music white boy!

With the issue being low rpm drivability I certainly would not go with the current rage of tightening the lobe separation as you really don't gain that much as compared to its effect on drivability. Drivability is obviously a subjective word but based upon observation, you'd absolutely hate a cam on a 110 or less. The last car I saw dyno had a cam on a 107 and the graph was all over the place with spikes and valleys for what amounts to probably 6-7 hp at most.

FWIW……Guess I'm getting old, numb and dumb but made a minor mistake as by happenstance I saw the cam card doing something else last night.....the cam is 233/242 and not 235/242.

More FWIW….I’m down 50 hp right now from where the car should be and it’s giving me fits trying to figure it out so don’t feel like a lone ranger. But then again…..it’s a hobby right.

 

Would that be the cam card for this cam? The specs in my sig are what Scott quoted me and I thought it was a GTP6, and those specs I was told did not quite match those for a GTP6.
Any way you can send me a copy of that if its for this cam, either email or fax?

A hobby...yeah one that's driving me insane ...maybe I'll stay with waterskiing for a hobby full time ..much more cost effective..hehe

 

The cam card has been sent but remember the reason for cam cards is sometimes cams don't come out exact, but the cam card is.....what it is.

Also Scott swears up and down your car has 2.73 gears and said it not only shows up on the dyno but said he checked your information on your car and the code was for 2.73 gears. Might want to check on that just to be sure but he also confirmed it ran ruff at low speeds and he noticed it too.

 

The 3.23 geared cars are easy to tell because the shifter has 1st gear indicated "1" and the 2.73 cars do not. I also verified the code in the glove box as GU5 and on my PHS documentation.
If I'm not mistaken, the TAs that had the "TRANSMISSION PERFORM" buttom were also all 3.23 geared cars which mine has as well.