This is a continuation of the problem I had ever since I finished my heads/cam install.

Original problem consisted of the following:

- Ran Super Rich, fouled plugs in matter of 2-3 minutes. Plugs were pitch black. BLM's 108 for both sides. SBLMS at around 40 or lower.

- Missing about 125 hp, trapped best of 102 in 5 runs. 3rd gear pull is pathetic. No knock retard.

- Pulled a pathetic low 8-10 inches of vaccumm at idle, and seemed to be missing.

Characteristics of Car include.....

- 93 T/A Auto with stock 3.23 rear-end. Ported Stock castings, XE230/236 comp cam, Hooker Lt's, 3 in. Dual Exhaust, 2800 stall, 700R4 transmission (not original), 30# SVO's, and a lot of other less significant modifications. Also has PCM4LESS tuning.

What i have done.....

- replaced with new GM opti,
- installed fuel pressure regulator, and verified fuel pressure at all conditions, all OK.
- No apparent exhaust leaks
- reconfirmed timing chain alignment (dot to dot) using Cloyes double roller.
- Changed Coil, bypassed MSD,, and have played with different plug gaps
- Enlarged IAC idle hole, seemed to help, and craked TB blades and it really helped. Car is now drivable.
- Converted to heated 02 sensors, replaced IAC, MAP, TPS,
- Changed back to stock GM lifters, after Comp Cam lifters seemed to be bad.

and finally now, car drives much better, it wont stall, and has very little cam surge at low speeds. But after looking at the scan data, (ACTRON scanner, not DATAmaster), found out at under no trottle conditions ST blms are under 40, both sides, and as i progessively apply more trottle, this goes lean...ST blms shoot to 140 and above, and as high as 140 or so. WOT makes blms hover around high 140 low 150's.

Also, the IAT shuts down to 0, when in idle, probably because of the slightly craked open tb blades. Car idles at 950 to 1000 rpm.

Also, more importanlty can someone please confirm the following. Today, with the ignition key foward - engine off, I check for voltage at all injector harnesses. 12v all accross. I used a voltmeter, ground one end to the frame, and check for voltage at the pink wire slot.............................but then I grabbed ground from the injectors harness (blue wire, I think), and consequently check for voltage at the injector (pink wire) and there was current, meaning that there is ground at the blue wire, and power to the pink wire at all times. Is this right? This means that my injectors with the ignition key forward are open all the time or no?

Please confirm.

Thanks
Desperate Man in TEXAS, thinking of selling the farm!!!!

 

TTT,

Can someone at least confirm the last paragraph. Thanks