Stumble after MAC header install
Hi guys,
I just had MAC's installed and drove the car home (5 min drive) and it ran perfect. Today I took it out for a longer drive, and the first few mins drove fine again and after about 6 or 7 minutes it would studder/misfire at any RPM.
My wires are new AC/DELCO and I noticed #5 wire is touching the header primary. Looks slightly whitish at the spot where its's touching. Certainly not burnt through very deeply (as far as I can tell) just the very outer layer is discolored.
Is this whats causing the poor performance?
I also added new AC/DELCO O2s, so I doubt it's those.
If it is the burnt wire, will re-routing it solve the problem or will I need to buy a whole new set of Delco wires?
Just confused as it drove great for the first few mins then once it got hot it started running like crap.
Thanks.
I just had MAC's installed and drove the car home (5 min drive) and it ran perfect. Today I took it out for a longer drive, and the first few mins drove fine again and after about 6 or 7 minutes it would studder/misfire at any RPM.
My wires are new AC/DELCO and I noticed #5 wire is touching the header primary. Looks slightly whitish at the spot where its's touching. Certainly not burnt through very deeply (as far as I can tell) just the very outer layer is discolored.
Is this whats causing the poor performance?
I also added new AC/DELCO O2s, so I doubt it's those.
If it is the burnt wire, will re-routing it solve the problem or will I need to buy a whole new set of Delco wires?
Just confused as it drove great for the first few mins then once it got hot it started running like crap.
Thanks.
I've had the same problem. I had a few burned plug wires. I took them out and taped the up with 3m 88 Electrical tape and put them back on. Made sure they wernt touching the hedders or heads again and it ran fine.
Thanks for the suggestion. Were your wires 'slightly' burned like mine with the whitish discoloration? Where did you get the 3M 88 Electrical tape?
Yes they were slitely discolored like ur discribing. I got the tape at Lowes or home depot. u can also use the 3M 33+. The only diffrence between them is the thickness. the 88 is thicker and a lot tougher. When u put them back on make sure they dont touch the hedders again though. I'd also suggest getting some Plug wire boot protectors. You can get them for like 40 bux for 2 at oreilly. I got all 8 of mine for 20 bux but i had a friend that worked there so we did a lil under the counter trade.
Yes they were slitely discolored like ur discribing. I got the tape at Lowes or home depot. u can also use the 3M 33+. The only diffrence between them is the thickness. the 88 is thicker and a lot tougher. When u put them back on make sure they dont touch the hedders again though. I'd also suggest getting some Plug wire boot protectors. You can get them for like 40 bux for 2 at oreilly. I got all 8 of mine for 20 bux but i had a friend that worked there so we did a lil under the counter trade.
Your wire is burned, best to replace the wire. Make sure that none of the wires ever touch the headers. Run the car in the dark with the hood open when the engine is up to temp, look for sparks. You can use a inspection mirror to see all angles. Very common problem w/header install.
Your wire is burned, best to replace the wire. Make sure that none of the wires ever touch the headers. Run the car in the dark with the hood open when the engine is up to temp, look for sparks. You can use a inspection mirror to see all angles. Very common problem w/header install.
The problem is that stock wires for not wire wound, they are a carbon type compound. When over heated I.E. white colored you have dried out core causing the spark to have to jump inside the wire. Not in all cases, but most. Get a set of MSD or Accell wires the have wire wound cores and thicker jackets to withstand more heat from the headers.
The problem is that stock wires for not wire wound, they are a carbon type compound. When over heated I.E. white colored you have dried out core causing the spark to have to jump inside the wire. Not in all cases, but most. Get a set of MSD or Accell wires the have wire wound cores and thicker jackets to withstand more heat from the headers.
I bet either you or whoever installed the headers had to extend the O2 sensor on the driver side and spliced wires into the O2 sensor side instead of on the engine harness side. The O2 sensor wires have a gap in between the insulation and the wire and uses that as the control to determine whether the exhaust is rich or lean. The splicing ruins the gap and makes the sensor go bezerk and the car goes extremely rich or lean on that side. the result is a poor running car when it goes into closed loop, just as you described.
The fix: new oxygen sensor on that side and a 12 inch extension which can be bought from summit. Look at my sig and ask how I know all of this.....
The fix: new oxygen sensor on that side and a 12 inch extension which can be bought from summit. Look at my sig and ask how I know all of this.....
I bet either you or whoever installed the headers had to extend the O2 sensor on the driver side and spliced wires into the O2 sensor side instead of on the engine harness side. The O2 sensor wires have a gap in between the insulation and the wire and uses that as the control to determine whether the exhaust is rich or lean. The splicing ruins the gap and makes the sensor go bezerk and the car goes extremely rich or lean on that side. the result is a poor running car when it goes into closed loop, just as you described.
The fix: new oxygen sensor on that side and a 12 inch extension which can be bought from summit. Look at my sig and ask how I know all of this.....
The fix: new oxygen sensor on that side and a 12 inch extension which can be bought from summit. Look at my sig and ask how I know all of this.....
Thanks to all for your help.
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