Stubborn Issues
Okay, so pardon my longish list of stuff we've replaced, and the problems it caused/fixed:
-Ran fine, occasional missing, poor response, moderate power, engine light on-
Throttle Position Sensor
-slightly more responsive-
EVAP Purge Solenoid
Flushed Coolant
Replace Intake Manifold Gasket
New Smog Pump
-fixed engine light-
Spark Plugs (AC Delco Rapid Fire)
Fuel Filter
-started missing after warming up to the extent it was undriveable, idle rough, shakes on 400< rpm drops-
Distributor (MSD)
Plug Wires (Taylor, Spiro-Pro 8mm)
Water Pump (Reman'd)
Thermostat (Stant 180)
-Missed slightly less, surged at idle, poor power-
IAC Valve
-Fixed surging, moderate power, stopped missing until warmed up-
Fuel Injectors (24lb Aftermarket)
-better power, more responsive, only missed below 3000 rpm-
O2 Sensors
MAP Sensor
Ignition Coil (MSD Blaster Coil)
Fuel Pressure Regulator
-More power, better response, still idles rough, stumbles on acceleration below 3000 rpm-
It's currently idling rough, stutters and misses at 900-3000 rpm.
And any RPM drop of more than 400 causes the car to shake.
It idles around 6-800 rpm
Above 3000 the car accelerates fine, no major noises/issues.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
P.s. seems to be a clicking noise coming from the driver side of the engine, but too loud to tell.
Thanks,
Greg
-Ran fine, occasional missing, poor response, moderate power, engine light on-
Throttle Position Sensor
-slightly more responsive-
EVAP Purge Solenoid
Flushed Coolant
Replace Intake Manifold Gasket
New Smog Pump
-fixed engine light-
Spark Plugs (AC Delco Rapid Fire)
Fuel Filter
-started missing after warming up to the extent it was undriveable, idle rough, shakes on 400< rpm drops-
Distributor (MSD)
Plug Wires (Taylor, Spiro-Pro 8mm)
Water Pump (Reman'd)
Thermostat (Stant 180)
-Missed slightly less, surged at idle, poor power-
IAC Valve
-Fixed surging, moderate power, stopped missing until warmed up-
Fuel Injectors (24lb Aftermarket)
-better power, more responsive, only missed below 3000 rpm-
O2 Sensors
MAP Sensor
Ignition Coil (MSD Blaster Coil)
Fuel Pressure Regulator
-More power, better response, still idles rough, stumbles on acceleration below 3000 rpm-
It's currently idling rough, stutters and misses at 900-3000 rpm.
And any RPM drop of more than 400 causes the car to shake.
It idles around 6-800 rpm
Above 3000 the car accelerates fine, no major noises/issues.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
P.s. seems to be a clicking noise coming from the driver side of the engine, but too loud to tell.
Thanks,
Greg
Could the clicking noise be the tick of an exhaust leak? I only say something because I had an exhaust leak for a long time on my 93. It ran fine after i got the leak fixed and the o2s changed. Having power above 3k can be due to the tune. I believe that in the 93s the fuel map takes over at a certain RPM/Throttle level. Just a shot in the dark from personal experience.
Check for air leak with a vacuum guage or your ears
When an engine after all you have done runs well above 3 M and stumbles below it can mean:a vacuum hose somewhere is leaking or disconnected
Could the clicking noise be the tick of an exhaust leak? I only say something because I had an exhaust leak for a long time on my 93. It ran fine after i got the leak fixed and the o2s changed. Having power above 3k can be due to the tune. I believe that in the 93s the fuel map takes over at a certain RPM/Throttle level. Just a shot in the dark from personal experience.

(It was idling at 1000 rpm, and occasionally jumped up to like 2700 >.<)
Thanks guys, after seeing some posts and talking to people around the area I'm changing the Delco's and throwing in autolites. I've read to use a .050 gap, but autolites say use a .060 and the factory plugs we took out were gapped at exactly .060. It ran better prior to changing them. Not sure if it'll help or not but..
Last edited by Gerg007; Mar 8, 2010 at 02:36 AM.
Ton of parts but little troubleshooting going on
My first issue is the intake manifold and the fact that you still have an oil leak at the back of the engine. If you were there doing the manifold why wouldn't you at least identify where the oil leak was coming from?
Next issue is when you did the plugs. you said this:
At that point you back up and at a minimum reverse the step you did to what appears to create the problem.
Now I'm really confused by the next part:
Isn't "started missing after warm up" the same thing as "stopped missing until warmed up"? And if you gained a miss until warm and then lost it, we don't know.
You did the plugs and fuel filter and gained a miss after warm up. Then you did a ton of crap and still had the miss after warm up. Yes or No?
The most common "off idle" miss is the EGR. Seems most likely the problem. BUT you don't have to replace it to figure out if it's the problem.
Last point or question really is when did the "tick" show up? Was it after the plugs were put in? This is a very common place for a tick. Many MANY folks screwed up the plug install and now one or more is leaking at the head and the "sudden gush" of gases past the plug sounds like a tick.
I think you know how to check for leaking plugs.
Next issue is when you did the plugs. you said this:
Now I'm really confused by the next part:
Spark Plugs (AC Delco Rapid Fire)
Fuel Filter
-started missing after warming up to the extent it was undriveable, idle rough, shakes on 400< rpm drops-
Distributor (MSD)
Plug Wires (Taylor, Spiro-Pro 8mm)
Water Pump (Reman'd)
Thermostat (Stant 180)
-Missed slightly less, surged at idle, poor power-
IAC Valve
-Fixed surging, moderate power, stopped missing until warmed up-
Fuel Filter
-started missing after warming up to the extent it was undriveable, idle rough, shakes on 400< rpm drops-
Distributor (MSD)
Plug Wires (Taylor, Spiro-Pro 8mm)
Water Pump (Reman'd)
Thermostat (Stant 180)
-Missed slightly less, surged at idle, poor power-
IAC Valve
-Fixed surging, moderate power, stopped missing until warmed up-
You did the plugs and fuel filter and gained a miss after warm up. Then you did a ton of crap and still had the miss after warm up. Yes or No?
The most common "off idle" miss is the EGR. Seems most likely the problem. BUT you don't have to replace it to figure out if it's the problem.
Last point or question really is when did the "tick" show up? Was it after the plugs were put in? This is a very common place for a tick. Many MANY folks screwed up the plug install and now one or more is leaking at the head and the "sudden gush" of gases past the plug sounds like a tick.
I think you know how to check for leaking plugs.
Fixed! Idle is still a little off, but nothing I can't figure out over time. Autolite 606's gapped at .060 and it's golden -.- 2 plugs were fouled out, but so far the new ones are good.
Oh and Speedy, tickings gone, #3 plug was a little loose.
Thanks all =)
Oh and Speedy, tickings gone, #3 plug was a little loose.

Thanks all =)
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