smallest cap screw style rod bolt head? (ARP L19's require too much block grinding) Whelp, I performed a good search on the topic of rod bolt clearancing and stroker block clearancing but was not able to find the answer to my question.

The question simply stated:

Is there a smaller headed rod bolt on the market that may help with reducing the amount of block clearancing?

I just bought Eagle H-Beam 6.0" rods, (for the great amount of cam clearance at the shoulder). Mocked up to check for clearance and piston deck height, the 3.800" stroke crank and H-beam 6.0" rod with ARP L19 rod bolts hit the bottom of the cylinder. The amount of material that I must removed now has me thinking I'll find the water jacket. The block is already a proven performer, (seasoned). It was clearanced for a stock LT1 rod 3.75" crank 383 set up so there is I guess "minor" grinding at the bottom of the piston bore. Now with a 3.800 stroke crank and Eagle H-beam rod the pan rail needs grinding....no biggie....but a lot more grinding on the cylinder bottom is required.

This is not a super high horsepower project, (550hp natural at 7000rpm drag race application with 200hp nitrous hit on occasion). Is there a smaller headed rod bolt available? Any personal experience with this Eagle rod and L19 bolt as far as block clearance?

The rods can go back in the box and I'll exchange for different rod set if someone has a good stroker rod suggestion, ($500 set of rods). I hear that Oliver billet and Lunati Pro Mod are shaped well for that but I want to attempt this with a cheap set of rods.

Thanks for any and all advice.

Karl Ellwein

 

A Eagle 8740 (the standard bolt) will take over 600hp without a hitch, throw that in a low RPM street car (anything below 7,000) with a relatively light piston and it's golden.

A ARP 2000 has the same size head as a standard bolt and is not nearly as finiky as a ARP L19 in handling.

Bret

 

Thank you Bret. I have been searching the internet in the interim and you have confirmed what I found, (the standard bolt that Eagle puts in this rod is the ARP 8740 cap-screw style).
I think that head size is 7/16" and this L-19 is 1/2"

My mistake was to get this upgrade bolt when ordering from Flatlanderracing.com. Shoulda just ordered the rods "standard".

I'll probably have to do further grinding on the cylinder bottoms but not near as much as I was dreading.

thanks again.

Karl

 

Bret or anyone,
1st photo is of my current block which is clearanced for a stock rod and 3.75" stroke. I'm using that block for my example and visual model to help me grind on the other block-future 3.800" stroke block. Do you think I can grind more in this spot and not hit the water jacket?
(it doesn't look like you can link to images here so I have the photos as hyperlinks)
rod-bolt bumping cylinder

current amount of block clearancing

let me know, thanks

 

I ground a lot more on my block than you show in the pic. I figure the high corner was cut back .150+ for a 3.75 stroke with Scat H-beams and standard 8740 capscrew.
I think you'll be okay but the L-19's are overkill.

Dean

 

I had to clearence my block with a 6.0 eagle rod/L19 bolt on a 3.48 stroke crank. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes...that L19 is a big bolt.

 

I thank you for the reply guys. Kinda figured that I could grind further after I did a search for others with 396 strokers and found photos that show quite a bit of grinding in that spot.

Yes, my mistake in getting the "upgrade" L19. Lack of experience here. I'm on the phone now looking into an exchange.

 

Quick,

Yeah that's very minimal grinding. Clearancing for a 396 takes a bunch more than that. If you can do a 3.875" stroke with a H beam then a 3.800" is easy.

Bret

 

Now even more good news from all here with experience. Again I thank you.
I'm more confident of the distance I can go now as far as grinding.
And to save the hastle, I'm going to stick with this L19 rod bolt.
Thanks gang.
Karl Ellwein