Motor is shot, going to have to be cleaned out and crank turned down at the least. Have most of the stuff ready to turn it into a 383, but is it worth it? I see heads and cam ppl put down ~400hp, I know it will have plenty of torque. Im going for decent power and alot of dependability. Not much racing, but enough to where if I need it, it will be there.

It will be forged Eagle crank, SIR 6" rods, JE/SRP forged pistons, around 10.5:1 cr, 58mm tb, LE2 heads and cam, Hooker Catback, Moroso CAI, maby a 3k stall.


What do you guys think?

What does your stroker put down to the tires?

 

Kick the compression up and run the LE-3 set up and you won't be sorry.
A good BARELY street able 383 on pump gas will put down 485-525RWHP. IMO there is no sense to spend the money for machine work to build a 383 and limit it severely with heads and cam and compression. Get a good used crank some rod bolts and a set of forged piston's and do a 355 with the LE-3 set up.Maybe a 3-set of heads and a 2 cam and it will be plenty street able,but keep the compression up to at least 11.5 static and no less than 8.7 dynamic compression on pump gas. A set of 3 heads run good but are limited in flow(small casting),so the high RPM's and BIG HP numbers are out.300Cfm will support 620FWHP=508RWHP(auto) IF everything else is dead nuts.The 3 heads don't flow 300CFM and will probably support 550FWHP=451RWHP(auto)maybe a tad more,don't know his latest numbers.This is with LT-1 intake and BIG TB and EVERYTHING being spot on.

So it's decision time and time to crunch the $$$ number's to see what is best for you.

OBTW ya can figure on 900-1000 dollars at the machine shop for block work and balance and NO 4 bolt mains installed,they are extra.

 

Do you think he could get away with 8.7 DCR in Vegas?

 

Yes
Got to have cooling anywhere.
I have 9.2 in the deep south.Lived out there and except for a couple on months it's about the same as it is here.
Got to have a good tune also.

 

I still wouldn't want to push it that much in 110deg heat all the time. 8.3 is safe about anywhere, we can push it more but then you gotta start getting smarter when it comes to tuining and keeping the old knock bug away.

Bret

 

What ya mean 110*.I was there when it was 90* at 5AM and worked on a crane every day. They closed the airport for a couple of days 'cause they had no lift or weight charts for the temp so a plane could take off or land. 128*"It's a different heat" is what they tell ya. BS hot is hot.

Like I said ya need tuning and cooling and can't slack on either.
Put a boost timing control **** in the console and turn the timing down a couple of * when it's HOT.

 

Don't mean to steal the thread but I have a question. How much power could the stock crank and rods handle. I have a 97 Formula and I was thinking about just rebuilding the motor and running a 150 shot. Would it be safe running the stock rods and crank???

 

I hear the crank can handle ~500, but I doubt it would last for any time if you drive wot all the time... So 8.3 DCR would be a better number to shoot for or should I go with the 8.7 for the little bit of umph.

 

Once its built the 8.3 is there forever. With the closer to 9.0 ya have options as mentioned to take timing out for every day and put it back in to race at night. Just get it max tuned and if it wants to knock take a couple of degrees of timing out with a little **** and cruise.

 

Well if you set the bearing clearances properly, balance the thing well, put lighter than stock parts on top of it and stay away from detonation the stock crank will take a hell of a beating.

Bret

 

LR, the timing retard you mention sounds like a good idea. Never thought of that before!

Bret, do you see a problem with doing it that way?

 

Every now and then I get a good idea, No- no problems,except the engine will seem a little lazy as compared to full timing,but nothing serious. It won't be lazy on race night if ya get it max tuned.

 

I like the idea of that... going to look around for one. Around how much should a decent one cost?

 

Don't know the cost,but ya need a MSD 6AL(maybe another will work too)timing box and the MSD boost timing control. Look in Summett.

 

Yup, summit has them... Ive been wanting a 6AL for a while now... 230 for that and i think 121 for the timing controler. Now, time to find the right parts to up the DCR