Is the stock steel driveshaft a better option for the drag strip. I know people have shredded LS1 driveshafts but I thought the 1LE was a little stronger...

 

The stock steel shaft is probably stronger than either of the aluminum shafts. If you have one without the vibration issue, I would use that and not one of the OEM aluminum shafts. You have too much hp for one of those wimpy OEM shafts! Though if you are using street tires, it probably won't make much of a difference.

Rich Krause

 

I still have the stock steel driveshaft on my car. No probs yet.

 

Here is one of the reasons I would never use another Aluminum Driveshaft. It was on my friends almost stock car with drag radials.

http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/membe...=348183&page=3

The other reason is....I had an Lingenfelter 3.5 Inch Aluminum DS and at the first pass at the track it started vibrating or gave a vibrations at 5500rpms. I had the vibrations for one week, then my friend and I rotated the DS 180 degrees and it still had the vibrations. Next, My friend and I pulled out the Lingenfelter DS and put the stock Steel one back on my car and the vibration went away, it was real smooth again. Oh by the way, this was on my car when it just had an intake, catback and the S10 convertor on it. So now I would never trust an Aluminum DS, especially with my new set up (making more power).

Just my 2 cents.
Claude

 

Thats what I was afraid of. I originally put the 1LE in b/c the stocker was vibrating bad at high speeds. With the 1LE it went away....I may just swap the steel one back in for track visits or get it balanced better so I can run it all the time.

 

If you get the steel one balanced (and you should if you're going to use it for drag racing) make sure it's done by a shop that can do "precision" balancing. Most local shops that do drive shaft balancing only spin the shaft to 2000-3000 rpm. That isn't enough. You need a shop that can spin it to at least 6000-7000 rpm. And make sure they will do a heavy steel shaft. You may have to send it off somewhere to get it done, but the steel one is much stronger that an OEM aluminum one.

 

From what I have heard/experienced having the driveshaft balanced is not going to help in every case. Apparently at the manufacturer they balance the driveshaft and the pinion at the same time. So if you have a balanced driveshaft, your pinion may be out of balance. This is what I've read on here a few times, but I know that when I got my stock steel "vibeshaft" balanced it didn't help a whole lot.

John

 

So you are saying that they removed the front yoke to do the balance?

 

Well at the factory I have heard(do not know for a fact) that the driveshaft and pinion are balanced as one. I can believe this because when I had my stock steel driveshaft balanced it did not take care of all of my vibrations. In fact there was a lot of it still left.

John

 

Interesting...Ill call around here to a couple places and see what they can do.

 

I thought the same thang when I had my steel balanced and not the pinion. I then changed the shaft to a 2000 alum shaft and the vib went away.