I'm having trouble deciding on what direction to go with my motor. I just can't get the same answer twice and thats whats making me overthink this whole process.

I started out planning on leaving the stock bottom end, but 2 of my rings were broken and my bores were scratched so it need to be bored .30 over so I have to get new pistons.

Right now I'm working on a deal from a member here with some good used SRP forged pistons with a -5cc valve relief (what compression would that be with a 58cc head?). With these pistons I was planning on keeping my stock PM rods and adding ARP rod bolts and I already have a turned stock LT1 crank thats ground .10/.10 rod and mains and I was going to put ARP main studs for a little piece of mind. I can take the crank back if I decide to do a complete rotating assembly. Personally I think with this setup I would be fine, but I have been told that it won't last. My crank is already balanced for stock rods and pistons, but I would have to rebalance it for the SRPs right?

Now on the other hand I can do a budget 383 build up with a cast steel crank, speed pro hyperutectic pistons, and 5140 rods with ARP bolts. But then I have a cheep set of pistons, but the assembly would be balanced and I would have a few more cubic inches to build some more power. And it would cost about the same and the above bottom end.

As of right now I'm leaning towards the 383, but I kind of want to stay around 355 cubic inches, why I'm not sure. Basically which setup do you think would be better? I'm going to basically have the same amount of money in the stock rods and crank with the SRPs as I would with a 383 rotating assembly. I'm not planning on adding nitrous or boosting so forged pistons aren't really needed, but they would be there if I ever decided to change my mind.

Let me know what you think. And here is a link to the engine kit that I'm think about...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...8343667&rd=1,1

Thanks in advance

 

Man speaking from experience, IMO you never ever rebuild a motor with used pistons. They just arent expensive enough to justify cutting that corner that can come back to bite you. The stock LT1 crank and rods should be fine unless your planning on making quite a bit of power. Just have the crank inspected and turned if need be. But since new cranks are so cheap these days if your leaning towards a stroker go for it. If your going to change the crank theres no real reason to stay at 355.

 

I know what you are saying, but these are low miles pistons and I'm planning on adding new rings. I already have a reground crank and my rods are fine. Like I said, I can take the crank back and get the stroker kit but I would almost rather stay with the stock bottom end and the SRP pistons.

I know quite a few guys that have used good used pistons in their buildups and had no problems. Thats just from my experience

 

If your trying to keep the cost down, I like your 1st idea. Just have the machine shop check the pistons for you.
Looking at your parts needed comment, please buy a quality converter to go with the 3.73s. You need at least a 3200 stall to go with that cam, if your concerned about performance.

 

Right now I just want the car to drive so I can get some miles on the motor this summer, and then this winter I'm either going to do a CPT rebuild or a 6 speed swap. So this summer I just want it to run and drive and then next summer I can get some track days and some street kills.

Thanks for the concern though

 

Just get new pistons, have the rods resized, and the crank ground or w/e you need to do. Do not buy used pistons. That can end up bad.

 

i agree with these guys, do not use used pistons

 

i say go with the stock crank, mahle pistons and scat i beam rods, should run you about 700 and you'll have a shortblock that should hold 500+hp n/a or n20.

 

Well I know alot of guys who have ran sub 1.6 '60 times and multiple 10 second passes on stock 10 bolts...... But i wouldnt f'n recomend trying it. Sure they are likley to be fine, but considering if they ARENT fine, its not exactly an easy fix. Like i said the risk just isnt worth the headache if one breaks when new SRPs arent all that much anyway

And i dont have a probelm with you using inspected stock rods and bolts. Theres a big difference between the amount of failed rods, and cranks compared to pistons Ive seen.

 

Well thanks for all of the responses, but I guess I'm taking a chance and if it doesn't work it will be my problem. I'm getting the SRP pistons and will add new rings, if my stock pistons were good I would have reringed those and used them so I would have taken a chance there. I respect your opinion, but this is what I have decided to do.

Thanks

 

Good luck then man, if it makes you feel better about your decision nobody else ever listens to me anyway

 

Dude I'm not trying to start anything. I have made my decision and I can live with the consequences.

 

lol start anything? I said good luck, and I ment it. I dont wish for anything bad to happen to your project becuase you didnt take my advice. Ive just been on the heartbroken end becuase of myself trying to cut corners. So i try to save people from that same feeling.

Sincerley though, I hope it all goes to plan for you

 

You too? I thought it was just me.