I dont wanna buy a Honda so help me fix my car. I did the LT4 Hotcam kit with MAC headers, plugs, and wires. After completeing this I started my car and heard a terrible misfire and the car ran like crap it had no power. If you were brake torquing it would only go to 2k rpms onn full pedal. When the car is cold it runs great but after a minute or two of warming it up hell breaks loose with it. Double checked the plug wires and plugs, so we were convinced it would be the opti (considering my cousin spilled water on it) so I bought a new opti, put it in. Car does run better but will still hit a rough spot in idle and almost quit but then comes back. It does have somewhat more power now when driving or brake torquing but you get maybe 2500 rpms on full pedal brake torquing. Also the coil has been checked and I scanned the car but dont really know what I am lookin for. I did notice that the knock count seemed high it was in the 1000's. Also no trouble codes came up.My question is what next? I have to get it running for summer cause I miss it and I'm gonna get it repainted black with black metal flake and silver stripes..... I need everyones help!!!

 

double check your firing order and plug routing. Also, make sure the maf is plugged in, and the boots over it and the throttle body are on correctly and not able to leak.

You said it runs fine when cold and then gets bad as the car warms up. This sounds like something that could be a problem only in closed loop. Check for burnt o2 sensor wires. Did you install new o2 sensors or just reuse the old ones?

Don't worry about a knock count in the 1000s unless it is steadily rising. You will get some knock count stored when you start the car, often times much more then 1000, but then it will sit dormant unless you actually do get some more knock later...

How are the BLMs?

 

I replaced the 02's with AC Delco ones....BLM's? I'm not familiar with the scanning and not really sure what to look for I as mainly looking for trouble codes. The plugs have been checked and rechecked and checked again its been horrible cuz thats the way it seems. It has to be somethin to do with heat tho because it runs fine while iots still cool. I just dunno what! I'm so aggravated its been over a month now of workin on weekends to fix this thing!

 

What year is your car?

Are you absolutly sure you aligned the dots on the timing gears when taking the old set off/putting the new set and cam in? Your cam and crank could be out of sync.

Go back and re-check your injector connections and plug wires. I know you already said you did, but do it again. Go buy a Haynes manual if necessary to be sure you hooked everything up correctly.

 

Haynes manual has been in use...the dots were lined up and everything seems to be correctly connected.....I'm wondering about the engine control module...

 

oh and its a 94

 

Could be the PCM but you would be throwing a code 51 and a SES light for it if anything was messed up with the PCM. Good luck and i hope you get her running.



Chris


PS: dont buy a honda and if you do then dont put a fartpipe on it.

 

Well we moved the ecm away from the head and it started running fine. Seems as though that could be the problem but there is still very little low range power. It dont feel like the transmission is shifting properly and the b&m kit will be coming back out tonight! Stock is back. The low range power problem, I'm thinkin is because it is starting my transmission in second instead of first! but thank God we are getting somewhere!

 

I'm not an expert, but I could've sworn I've heard it's a good idea to get your computer reprogrammed for an aftermarket cam. I think it depends on the car, some drop a cam in and it runs fine on stock programming, others report it will feel likt it's going to stall sitting at a light. So if you haven't already done that, look into it.

- Matt

 

tuning...yep done

 

why would you go from a z28 to a slow A$$ honda?

 

Reliability and gas mileage. Its the only thing they are good for...........


Chris