still no start or spark
still no start or spark
today i replace the el-cheapo autozone opti with a delphi unit. i also repaired a connector at the coil, it was not giving me a consistent 12v reading.
so i have
ignition module plug
-12V GREEN wire GOOD
-12V pink wire GOOD
-ground GOOD
-white wire...... here is where the problem lies, it only measures on the DC scale and its 1-4V DC, it reads ZERO on the AC scale. i do not know why this is. i have tried two different PCM's. i have a second PCM that came out of a running LT1 caprice. so why would this not have a reading on the AC scale. i have checked continuity back the PCM and the wire is good.
opti harness
-5V GOOD
-5V GOOD
-12V GOOD
-ground GOOD
anybody have an ideas. i done think this that complex of a system but im just striking out here.
so i have
ignition module plug
-12V GREEN wire GOOD
-12V pink wire GOOD
-ground GOOD
-white wire...... here is where the problem lies, it only measures on the DC scale and its 1-4V DC, it reads ZERO on the AC scale. i do not know why this is. i have tried two different PCM's. i have a second PCM that came out of a running LT1 caprice. so why would this not have a reading on the AC scale. i have checked continuity back the PCM and the wire is good.
opti harness
-5V GOOD
-5V GOOD
-12V GOOD
-ground GOOD
anybody have an ideas. i done think this that complex of a system but im just striking out here.
Last edited by ad356; Apr 22, 2015 at 01:38 PM.
Re: still no start or spark
Just a thought. Has your security light came on? I've seen people run in circles and it was the security system causing it to shut spark off, then fuel. Had to replace the ignition switch and key.
Re: still no start or spark
VATS operation appears to be normal. the security light comes on and goes out after a second or two. i have experience with this system as i had a 1989 camaro with that stupid system and it left the car stranded at a gas station once. i ended up leaving the car over night and soldering in a couple of resistors the next day. if that was the case i would not bother replacing the key or the ignition, i would do the bypass with resistors under the dash..... i have been there and done that, nothing new to me.
i do NOT think that's a problem here as the fuel pump is not disabled AND the security light goes out.
i think this damned car is cursed
i do NOT think that's a problem here as the fuel pump is not disabled AND the security light goes out.
i think this damned car is cursed
Re: still no start or spark
VATS operation appears to be normal. the security light comes on and goes out after a second or two. i have experience with this system as i had a 1989 camaro with that stupid system and it left the car stranded at a gas station once. i ended up leaving the car over night and soldering in a couple of resistors the next day. if that was the case i would not bother replacing the key or the ignition, i would do the bypass with resistors under the dash..... i have been there and done that, nothing new to me.
i do NOT think that's a problem here as the fuel pump is not disabled AND the security light goes out.
i think this damned car is cursed
i do NOT think that's a problem here as the fuel pump is not disabled AND the security light goes out.
i think this damned car is cursed
Re: still no start or spark
i am NOT buying another OPTI. its not the problem, remember i am getting 1-4 V DC on the white signal wire, if the opti was bad i would get nothing. also 4 of these stupid things cannot be bad.
codes? i had a 1351 code which i have cleared it has not returned. that's for the ignition control module circuit. no 1371 code has been produced.
the 1351 code is probably being produced because there is no AC voltage at the white ICM signal wire.... OK that told me something i already knew.
check the wire for continuty between the computer and the ICM. i already did that the wire is good..
so now what???
codes? i had a 1351 code which i have cleared it has not returned. that's for the ignition control module circuit. no 1371 code has been produced.
the 1351 code is probably being produced because there is no AC voltage at the white ICM signal wire.... OK that told me something i already knew.
check the wire for continuty between the computer and the ICM. i already did that the wire is good..
so now what???
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