Biggiebound

Ok I got my new water pump installed, new correct thermostat installed, and no leaks. I let the temp get up, and seen the thermostat open and added more coolant to top it off. I put a new radiator cap on and went inside the car to see what the temp was, it was Almost to the orange marks on the temp gauge. I shut the motor off and let it cool down. I am still noticing the gurgling in the system. I relieved the pressure from the radiator cap and it stopped after I relieved the pressure. I used water to just try the system out because if I didn't get my problem solved I wouldn't have wasted $35 on dex-cool coolant. Would this make a difference? Also I took my cooling fans out and tested them and they both worked. When I got everything back together the fans would only kick on when I turned the air on. Not when it got up to the 210-230 temp. If anyone could give me advice I sure would appricate it. Thanks so much for all the great info. Fred, shoebox, and injuneer you all have GREAT info and step by step options that was a great help.

maybe2fast

did you open the air bleeders when filling the coolant?

A little bit of extra water in the system is not going to hurt it...but if you filled it up with alot of water and not enough coolant to raise the boiling point of water above 212* then you were boiling your coolant at the stated temperatures.

how much water did you put in?

timmy39120

I had my own issues with the cooling system. It all started with a busted heater core. I eventually replaced the radiator, water pump, and all the hoses on the front of the engine. I am an expert on bleeding the cooling system now. I refer you to the bleeder screws:

http://shbox.com/1/bleeders.jpg

*CAUTION* place absorbent material under the bleeders to prevent water on the opti.

1. Start with engine off, coolant reservoir full, radiator cap open, bleeder screws cracked open.
2. Place absorbent material under the bleeder screws.
3. Pour coolant in the radiator till it starts to come out of the lower bleed screw.
4. Tighten bleeder screws.
5. Place radiator cap and loosely tighten (just to keep coolant splashing out)
6. Crank the engine.
7. Crack open the upper bleeder screw.
8. Remove radiator cap and add coolant till it comes out of the top bleeder screw.
9. Shut the top bleeder screw.
10. Continue to add coolant till it is at the top of the radiator cap.
11. Screw on cap and let the engine come up to temperature.
12. Turn off car.
13. Let the engine cool down.
14. Repeat steps 1-13.

Steps 1-13 represents a cycle. You generally have to go through about 3 cycles to get it full with no air bubbles. The air bubbles are a pain.

Alternative Method: I understand you can purchase a very tall funnel that screws into your radiator cap penetration. You install this, add coolant until it is slightly above the radiator. Crank the engine and add water till it quits burping.

Hope this helps.

Biggiebound

I see one of the bleeder screws on top of the thermostat housing but could you tell me where I can find the other bleeder screw?

Injuneer

Should be right where Shoebox's picture shows it, on the heater return line. See photo linked in post #3 above - did you not open it? If you don't have one, someone may have replaced the heater return hose.

Biggiebound

No I found it. I did exactly what shoeboxes site on filling cooling and it worked. I burped the system and after getting everything(air) out, the temp on the dash never reached over the center of the gauge(210*f) and the car is running cool again. It never reached a high enough temp to kick cooling fans on but the fans do come in when the a/c is on. Thank you so very much on everything everyone has sent me.

Biggiebound

Ok I ran the car for about 20 minutes and took it for a drive the temp stayed down and everything seemed to be fine. I stopped to check under the hood and thought I would open the top bleeder valve to make sure I got coolant coming out and it was so I **** the top bleeder valve and drove the car, I was almost to the house and the car sputtered a little and died. I let it se and relieved the pressure from the bleeder valve and started it back up and got home. I raised the hood and checked the top bleeder valve again and it had hot stem coming out of it for about 5-8 minutes before it stopped. I don't know if I let air back into the system or the motor is getting under a lot of pressure to make it die. I figured I would redo the burping tomorrow to see if that helped. The car never got hot until I got back to the house. If anyone can give me suggestions I would appreciate it. Thank you.

Injuneer

I would test the coolant for hydrocarbons.