ok, got it. Yes there is fuel at the schrader valve. I can borrow a scanner - so I would be looking for a loss of low res pulse code and that would be caused by either a loose opti plug on the passenger side intake manifold or maybe a bad cam pos. sensor? I can check if the injectors are firing, but I'll do that after checking fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure is low or zero should I go ahead and replace the FPR or would there be anything else at that point I could eliminate? I am finding it hard to believe the FPR would work and then I take it off and put it back on and suddenly its bad, but I suppose stranger things have happend..

Thanks guys

 

The "short" Opti harness runs from the bracket on the passenger side of the intake manifold to the Opti. The opti end is most likely to corrode, or lose the clip that hold it tight. But if you don't have the code for low of low res pulse from the Opti, its not an issue.

 

I was able to rent a fuel pressure gauge. turning the key on the pressure builds fine to 47psi, but after 15 minutes is down to about 30psi. I am going to keep it on for an hour just to see what it ends up at, but shouldn't it be able to start just fine with the initial pressure at 47? I forgot to try and start it to see what the pressure does, but I'll try after my hour test.

 

Doesn't sound too bad. It will usually drop in a matter of a few seconds if there is a problem.

 

I left the gauge on for an hour and it went down to about 24-26. I then tried to start it, got a bit of a thud and now again the car is completely dead. I have a charger on the battery in case since it has been sitting and most recently just cranking, but jumping the battery does nothing...figured I would try. EDIT: I'm retarded...disregard my "dead" comments. The pressure stays above 40 while cranking. I suppose maybe this is completely unrelated to my fuel rail work..hmm

I guess now I will see if I can borrow a scanner and see if there are any codes. The opti harness seems to be nice and tight..

 

If you don't have adequate voltage when the starter is cranking, its going to be hard to start. The fuel pump suffers, the injectors suffer, the PCM can't maintain the reference voltages, etc. I had a slow start problem (not even the stock PCM) and it was the stock starter pulling the system voltage down. Slapped in a new starter, not a stocker, and the starting improved 100%.

 

I'm really at a loss, but I guess maybe the scanner might tell me something tomorrow. The starter is new and has worked fine so far. I can't figure out why everything was good then suddenly all goes to hell it appears coincidentally when taking off the fpr and putting is back on just the same. So far there is no explaination for anything fuel related so who knows..

 

Engine running (if it starts) - does the fuel pressure vary when you move the throttle? Possibly the vacuum compensation line is cracked and leaking?

 

Yea so far it hasn't been starting to be able to check that

The exhaust shop forgot to weld in my o2 bungs so I have been running the engine (not driving yet) with out any o2 sensors until I trailer it back. The rears are edited out and I am running in speed density. Other than running in open loop is there any issues that can be caused by running "long term" without any o2 sensors - like shutting down and not starting?

 

When you say "no O2 sensors", do you mean the sensors are not connected to the harness (OK) or the sensors are connected to the harness (not a good idea) and hanging loose?

Why are you runing speed-density? Do you not have an MAF sensor installed?

 

I don't have any o2 sensors at all right now..they are not connected to the harness.

I switched to speed density because I had to unless I wanted a "modern" looking intake system. What I have on there does not allow for a MAF so I do not have one and it was switched in the PCM.

I have no codes. I left the fuel pressure test gauge on over night and today it was down to zero. So that seems to be a problem, but when cranking I have over 40psi so I do not know why it will not start . What's next Fred?

 

Losing the pressure overight isn't a problem. Its what it does when the pump primes, and how long it holds it while you are trying to start. My system has a regulator that doesn't block the return on shutoff. When the pump primes, it hits 58psi (where I run my fuel system), the pump stops and the pressure starts to drop (I have a dash mounted fuel pressure gauge) and I know exactly how many seconds (or fractions thereof) I have to try and start it. It will start instantly.

Might want to pull the rails up, pressure the system by turning the key to "on", then look for drips - probably none, because of the slow loss of pressure. After that, with the wire off the coil, crank it over a couple times to see if the injectors are spraying. Obviously, you want to avoid any possible source of ignition.

 

I'll check to see if the injectors are spraying, but I have been smelling raw fuel. If they are not spraying then what is likely the problem? I imagine after that I have about eliminated fuel as the problem and will move on to doing all the spark tests.

 

Ok so the car has been sitting a week until I had a chance to get back to it and the first try today it started up, second try it didn't, third try it did and it hasn't started since (a few trys). My check for spark turned out ok. Other than that fuel and spark seem ok so I am not sure where to go from here

One thing I have noticed is that I can hear the fuel pump the entire time the key is in the ON position. This is not right, correct? What could that be?

 

I think I have concluded that my starting problem is due to a loose coil wire. This water pump does not allow the coil wire to push on to the opti very well so there was a bad connection there. To confirm I had my dad push on the connection while the car struggled to start and when it started to stall out. After shaving the boot the car seems to start and run consistantly. I remember having to do that on my 96 Z after replacing the water pump. Sorry to mislead those trying to help by assuming it was due to work on the fuel system.

I am still wondering about the fuel pump running so long while the key is in the on position though?