Are you still trying to drain the tank? Pull the line off the fuel filter and pump it into a container - OUTDOORS, well vented, no sparks.

As far as getting the stale fuel out of the line from the filter to the engine, it is not a problem. It's a recirculated fuel system. When the pump is running, fuel is continuously circulating to the fuel rails and back through the return line. There is no problem getting fresh fuel to the injectors as long as you have fresh fuel in the tank.

The fuel pressure test port is the Schrader valve, shown in Shoebox's photo:

http://shbox.com/1/fp_reg.jpg

 

The fuel in this thing has the tank above full, which is ferocious. So I'm unhooking line under the car from the fuel pump? I've never done anything like that, its cool to learn though. I know where that valve is.

 

Are you sure you can't siphon it? I do that on my 94 regularly, to change from leaded race fuel to unleaded pump gas. It's hard getting the hose down in the fill pipe, but it is possible, at least on mine.

The line from the tank/pump to the fuel filter is plastic. It has a plastic collar quick disconnect on the fuel filter. You just squeeze the visible parts of the plastic collar to release the connector from the filter. If your tank is as full as you indicate, it will start to flow as soon as you unhook the line. Have a catch can ready. Run the pump using 12V to the prime connector and it will pump the tank out fast enough.

 

Really? I'm assuming the 94s would have the guard on them too, I guess I could give it another go, did you just work it around it until it let it down in there? I hate sounding dumb, but do I just run a line from the battery to the use for the pump or what? And alright, the filter behind the rear fender, I know what you're talking about now.

 

Also, would spray starter fluid into the throttle body be a good test? I tried, but it wasn't directly into it, probably didnt get much anywhere near it. Or should I spray some into a spark plug hole?

 

And would the car have strong spark if it was the opti? I was looking up how to test it and it was all about how it sparked.

 

I would work on getting fresh gas to the motor before you start worrying about the ignition.

Drain the tank, replace the filter and fill it up with fresh gas.
Change the plugs and oil and squirt some oil into the cylinders.
Pull the injectors and soak them for a while in cleaner as they are probably clogged at this point.

 

Plugs and wires are apparently new, without draining the tank and cleaning the injectors, I think I'm going to spray some start fluid in the spark holes and intake, that would surely fire a little if it was a fuel problem right? or no? And I've never removed the injectors before, I'm game though, I'm sure there's a guide somewhere. Seems like it has to be something little at this point, if not dealing with a fuel problem.

 

Myself I would slow down a step and rather than try to get it running would begin to eliminate reasons that will prevent it from running. That being said the old fuel has to go no way around it. Even if it would start. Personally I would suggest putting your starting fluid miles away from car to take that temptation away. Focus first both on proper diagnostics and getting it in proper running order(new fuel). Once you have new fuel in it test the fuel pressure. Very easy and can get the tester on loan from autozone or orieleys. This will tell you if you are ready to finally crank the engine or not. If you have new fuel and pressure within spec then you have eliminated most of the fueling concern. The fuel pressure testing can show a leaky injector and fpr problem so moniter the ability to hold pressure once its primed. At that point you could pull up the injectors and moniter spray pattern and even soak them as a different person suggested and moniter spray after soaking. This would mostly eliminate the fuel side of things in my opinion andthen point you to the spark side of things.

 

As stated by others, you need to concentrate on draining the old fuel. Put some fresh fuel and a new fuel filter. It's a lot easier than pulling plugs to squirt starting fluid in the cylinders, most of which will evaporate before reinstalling the plug. What doesn't will be diluted with the old gas.

Follow he procedure stated by Fred and others to drain the tank. Just be careful.

 

It would be easier, if the tank wasnt overly filled, that's a ton of gas, I'm not doubt going to have to drain it, I'm just trying to figure out the problem, any recommdations on what I should do with the gas that's in there?
Thanks for the help everyone, so when I get all the gas drained through the hook up in the filter, is that all I should do, put fresh gas in? Should I mess with the gas in the engine? Thanks for the auto zone tip, I didn't know they lent those out, that's my next step then.

 

Wow, sorry, I completely missed your comment, I'm try to read all these on my phone. You're right, I should eliminate things it could be so I'll have a better outcome when it is running. Thanks again.

 

You have to read ALL the responses carefully. I've already explained that since it is a recirculated system, as soon as you get fresh gas in the tank, the pump will keep circulating it through the fuel lines, the fuel rails and the fuel pressure regulator, pushing the old gas back into the tank. That small amount of old fuel in 5 - 10 gallons of fresh fuel will not make a difference.

You could also check the injectors to see if they are plugged. Pull the rails up, with the injectors intact, and put each injector in a jar. Crank the engine and make sure each injector is pulsing a decent spray pattern, as described in another post.

 

Do you have a link to the post? Are the injectors hard to on the Lt1s?

 

Link to what - where I explained it's a recirculated system?

Post #16 above, which you quoted.

Checking the spray pattern was suggested in post#24 by slick1hunting.

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